Profumorist

I have an interesting history when it comes to fragrance preferences. I was born in 1980. Accordingly, my fondness for perfumes began around 1994. I wore CK One, CK Be, Cool Water, and Tommy Cologne. But I also wore treasures like the old Havana, Fahrenheit, What about Adam, or Azzaro pour homme. In the 2000s, I wore everything that the local Douglas had in stock from Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, Baldessarini, Kenneth Cole, and the like. Fragrances that today make me wonder: "How could that happen?"

Then I discovered Terre d'Hermès for myself. It must have been sometime in 2011. My comeback in the world of fragrance. And what a comeback it was. A richness of facets and a quality impression that I had never known before. Probably no wonder, given the backstory. This wonderfully fresh-fruity start of orange with a hefty dose of pepper that tickles the nose. Grounded by patchouli. And in the drydown, the vetiver with amber. A combination responsible for this brilliant earthy-mineral base. Unique. For me personally, alongside Green Irish Tweed, it has the best drydown of a perfume. Plus, it has very good longevity and almost perfect sillage. All packaged in a pretty stylish bottle with a cool cap.

So it came to pass, as it had to, it became my signature scent. Last year, unfortunately, it had to give way to "Green Irish Tweed." I have probably grown a bit tired of it over time. Nevertheless, a look at my Assistant reveals that I still wear it quite often or have worn it. There are still about 20 ml left in my bottle. I will use that up and not repurchase it for now. We need a little distance. Still, this love will never completely fade away.

Terre d'Hermès. Elena's masterpiece. Worth its weight in gold for Hermès. The cash cow that, commendably, has not been milked as much as other manufacturers might have done.

If we continue this community in 20 years, we will probably nostalgically think back to the vintage Terre d'Hermès just as some do today with fragrances like Azzaro pour homme or Antaeus. And we will be able to say: "We were there."

I hope that with this comment about my once great love, I have sparked the interest of some newcomers here in this fragrance. A possible entry into the seemingly endless world of perfume art.

Best regards

Your Profumorist

That Italians can make colognes is something we’ve known since Mr. Farina. It’s quite possible that the former president of Ferrari, Luca di Montezemolo, had a hand in this. After all, he also breathed new life into Acqua di Parma in the 90s.

I was born in Cologne and have lived not far from it ever since. From my office, I can see the Colonius (Cologne TV tower), the RheinEnergie Stadium, and, obscured by a high-rise, at least the tips of the cathedral. I love FC and the Kölsch dialect. In short: I am what one would call a local patriot. And as it should be, we are baptized in Cologne not with holy water but with 4711. Those who don’t believe it can just Google it (Klüngelköpp - Gedäuf mit 4711).

Accordingly, I am familiar with neroli and the typical 4711 scent, and it does not strike me as strange, unwearable, or old-fashioned. And that’s exactly what one must appreciate to like and understand this fragrance.

The opening smells like 4711. However, it is much more modern. Nothing new. Tom Ford has already achieved this with his “Neroli Portofino” line. And to put it directly, I agree with Agathon, it is not a true scent twin. The dominance of neroli weakens after a short time and merges with other citrus fruits along with rosemary into an incredibly fresh, invigorating, and citrusy potpourri. Really beautiful. I like it extraordinarily. The base then reminds me a lot of “Colonia Intensa.” You wouldn’t believe what is in this fragrance.

I find the longevity and sillage to be average. For the construction of this fragrance, it is perfectly fine. The bottle and sprayer, on the other hand, are top-notch. Heavy glass, a snug-fitting cap with a leather-look insert, and a nicely wide spray nozzle. Thumbs up for that.

An almost perfect Italian for little money. It stands in its presentation and construction on par with some Acqua di Parma offerings.

Anyone who enjoys this type of fragrance (especially neroli) and is not put off by the 4711 opening can, in my opinion, buy it without hesitation. You get an excellent summer scent, which I personally will wear all year round.

Best regards

Your Profumorist

In the last days and weeks, one could once again follow live how some members maneuvered themselves into a corner with subjective assessments of certain fragrances. You could read along as lovers and wearers of specific scents were seemingly placed in a corresponding category. In a blog, the entire duel could even be tracked. Do not misunderstand this paragraph. It is not meant to reflect a judgment of individual opinions.

People, relax. We are a very, very large community with all facets and riches of life. From over 14 to over 60, from teachers, bricklayers, athletes, to lawyers, everything is represented. From lovers of fresh-fruity-modern scents to classic enthusiasts to oud fanatics, everything is present. Everything, really everything of every color. And as life is, not everyone likes everything. That is a law of nature and that is a good thing. Here in Cologne, we have a saying for this: "Every Jeck is different."

Personally, I also do not like comments that want to cast a certain wearership in a particular light (whether intentionally or unintentionally). Nevertheless, I view such comments with ease.

This fragrance here belongs to those that are fundamentally discussed controversially.
Either you love it or you hate it. Honestly, I have rarely read anything in between so far.

The Very Cool Spray unmistakably starts like the EdT. It is the same scent. It is Sauvage. However, it is a bit fresher and friendlier. The synthetic base mood is the same. Slightly sweet, fresh, and creamy. When this "extra" freshness subsides a bit, the normal Sauvage DNA becomes more apparent. It feels like the EdT, but with less pepper and ambroxan. Lighter in its basic orientation; however, definitely not lightweight. A little "less wrapped."

The longevity and sillage are, in my feeling, still very good.
I must admit, I find the bottle somehow cool and the sprayer is amazing. Please learn from it. As much as comes out with the Very Cool, I believe no other bottle produces that much.

However, I probably will not (yet) buy it. I simply do not like it (yet).
But still, I can understand the lovers of this perfume. For a modern scent, it is simply very well executed compared to many others of its kind. Here, you can clearly see the quality of Dior.

And one thing I must also admit fairly: You receive compliments (which is not important to me, as I wear fragrances for myself). It seems to be perceived as very interesting due to its sillage.

I hope that was objective enough.

In conclusion, it should be noted: Wear what you want! A lover of classic English scents will hardly find pleasure in this fragrance and vice versa just as little.

Regards

Your Profumorist

Each of us can remember certain situations and events in our lives. The first soccer game we saw live, the first kiss in our lives, the first night in our own apartment. And so on…

In the same way, everyone remembers their first perfume. Mine was the old "Jazz" in the black-and-white zigzag plastic bottle. I was ten years old. It didn't even belong to me but to my father. And yet this perfume still represents my first olfactory experiences with a fragrance.

For two months now, I have been in possession of this perfume again in its black-and-white zigzag plastic bottle. And there they were again. Those first memories.

And what one can perceive olfactorily in 2018 puts everything modern to shame.

A herb-green opening with anise, lavender, tarragon, and basil. Bitter-fresh kept by the bergamot. Simply a wonderful treat.

The heart note is typically floral with a fougère character. But I want to emphasize this: It definitely does not drift into the floral. This herb-fresh base tone always remains present.

In the base, the tobacco and moss aspects become more and more apparent.

You can't complain about the longevity and sillage. Typical 80s, after all.

All in all, a thoroughly green, herb-fresh fougère of the old school. And zero sweetness. For me, a masterpiece and once again an almost perfect men's fragrance.

It is confirmed once again that the scents created before the master’s death are all exceptional and, compared to the new releases after his death, unmatched.

Best regards

Your Profumorist

Once upon a time, there was an old Italian perfume house. Its greatest masterpiece was an Eau de Cologne called "Colonia" from the year 1916. In the following decades, this masterpiece was worn by many celebrities, Hollywood actors, and even monarchs, making it famous. Over the years, it became quiet, leading three Italian gentlemen in the mid-90s to feel compelled to breathe new life into this venerable brand.

But as life goes, eventually the big players take notice and buy it all up. This happened in 2001. And who did it? Of course, LMVH. The luxury goods giant from France. Since 2003, Acqua di Parma has been 100% owned by LMVH. Such affiliation can have its advantages, or unfortunately, it may not. The fact that people at the top of these "brands" have previously worked at Unilever and then suddenly take over Guerlain or Acqua di Parma can work, but it doesn't have to.

In the past two or three years, I unfortunately had the feeling that it hasn't been functioning as desired. The new releases from those years, such as Club, Pura, or Ambra, are, in my opinion, no longer small masterpieces. One rather gets the impression that LMVH has decided to milk the lifestyle brand cow as well. Too much qualitatively inferior product in too short a time!

Let’s not misunderstand: The above should not be a lament for the good old days. That's life, and it won't change (nor should it).

This little work of art was created in 2007 by Alberto Morillas and François Demachy. Two perfumers who have demonstrably proven their craftsmanship. And it has turned out to be quite distinct compared to the original Colonia.

The beginning is not as lemon-heavy as one might expect compared to Colonia. It is more of a potpourri of all citrus fruits, which makes the top note refreshing and invigorating, but overall rather soft. This is likely due to the quick addition of neroli oil. The whole composition is lightly spiced and herbaceous, underlined with mugwort and myrtle. Wonderfully balanced. It becomes interesting, in my opinion, in the base. Leather in a summery cologne. Grandiose.

One shouldn't expect too much from the longevity and sillage, as these are typically subtle for Acqua di Parma. If one wishes, a midday spritz can be applied. The bottle and the sprayer are exceptionally elegant.

Yes, one must admit. This Colonia is indeed a small masterpiece. Personally, I needed a few attempts to see it this way.

The regular Colonia is also a masterpiece, but for me, it becomes a bit too floral from the heart note onwards. For that, the Essenza is my absolute favorite. Like the Colonia, just composed in a more masculine way.

Regards

Your Profumorist