SilentWater

SilentWater

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SilentWater 5 months ago 9
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
A New World
Nouveau monde - (French for: New World)

When I first heard about this fragrance, I was immediately captivated.
It was his name that did it to me.
When you read the name of a fragrance and its composition, you have quite a few ideas (in French, by the way: imagination) - but with this one, I kept asking myself what it could possibly mean.
Does the good Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud mean his idea of a new world?
His new world?
What does it look like, this world?
And above all: what does it smell like there?
Questions upon questions.

Studying the notes: Oud, patchouli, incense, cocoa, saffron and blackcurrant, I try to imagine what the fragrance might smell like without ever having smelled it.
Many here speak of a leather accord that is not specified in the notes, but must be present.
Comparisons with Ombre Nomade are often mentioned.
You read leather again and again.
Leather here, leather there.
And to be honest, leather and me: it's complicated.
Nevertheless, the questions wouldn't let me go.
Because I was simply too obsessed with finally getting answers, I finally bought the Nouveau Monde blindly against all reason.
Arrived, sprayed it on, closed my eyes and lo and behold:

Answers!

First impression: Nouveau Monde is definitely not an ombre from Ombre Nomade.
It doesn't even have to begin to stand in its shadow, as it embodies a strong and independent character.
And all the other comparisons are also difficult for me to understand.
I only briefly had to think of Oud Maracujá - but only because of the slightly tart, fruity passion fruit.
The blackcurrant in Nouveau Monde does a very similar job to the passion fruit in Oud Maracujá.
The rest is very far away.

With the launch of nouveau monde, the perfumer himself created a new world - in my opinion, in terms of the perception of oud.
The way the composition with Indian oud in combination with cocoa and the other players creates a world in which oud is not perceived as a "typical" oud note (as known, for example, from Oud Wood Eau de Parfum or similar), but as a very realistic leather.
In combination with the other components, you get the impression of very luxurious leather.
For my understanding of this craft, this is true art.

Although the fragrance itself may not appeal to everyone, especially as it is very striking and clearly out of line, it is an extremely artistic interpretation of this new world.
As the wearer of this fragrance, you are transported directly into this world every time you catch a whiff of its precious scent.
It is like an enjoyable, slow car ride with the windows open, through a warm world in the Orient.
In my imagination, it's a black, brand new Mercedes G63 AMG.
Perforated leather seats.
Embroidered leather on the headliner.
Fittings clad in precious woods.
Noble incense smells from afar.
The scent of cocoa beans, saffron and currants wafts from the glove compartment.

In summary, Nouveau Monde has a multi-faceted depth, slightly brightened by the energy of blackcurrant.
The star of the show is definitely oud.
The antagonist, who also wins in the end, is cocoa.
The opening: loud, a blast of leathery oud, incense (for my perception the not yet burnt resins - only subtly smoky) and slightly fruity due to the blackcurrant.
The progression: slow, spicier (saffron mixes in) and the cocoa increasingly forms the balancing counterpoint to the oud.
The drydown: gentle, slightly spicy, chocolaty.

The fragrance has an excellent longevity of at least 14-16 hours on my skin. The sillage is also right up there.
For the first 6 hours, it takes over rooms, then everything within a radius of 2 meters for another 4 hours, and only after about 10 hours does it slowly recede, but it only really wants to be close to the skin after about 14 hours.
Despite its extremely strong performance, it surprisingly never becomes tiring for the wearer (with 2-3 sprays on the skin).

All in all, a beautiful (new) world that I always enjoy being enchanted by.

Thanks for reading!
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SilentWater 5 months ago 3
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Leather, candied fruit & gasoline
What a crusher!
Classically masculine, edgy and yet modern and elegant.
Sounds contradictory?
But it's absolutely attractive!

As we all know, like pretty much everything in life, it's a matter of both opinion and taste.

For my nose, this candidate certainly hits the mark, although I don't necessarily like leather accords in general.
But this one is different.

The "Homme Anniversary | XerJoff" - similar to its founder, the "Homme | XerJoff" - makes use of a very classic chypre base, which also forms the backbone of the fragrance.
The first thing that comes to mind is Diaghilev Parfum. At least it goes in that direction.
This wonderful vintage chypre vibe surrounds you for a good 8-9 hours when you wear this perfume. At the same time, the fragrance doesn't seem old-fashioned for a second.
To sum up, this is a leathery-fruity chypre that inevitably carries the basic DNA of its predecessor, but has been brought up to date with an update and new packaging.

However, that is by no means all.

The opening is sparkling, bright, although not refreshing, as you might expect from the notes listed.
As soon as you apply this fragrance, you get a sense of its depth.

So it starts off citrusy and herbaceous.
Leather is only subtly perceptible at first.
Similar to "Homme | XerJoff", what comes to the fore relatively quickly is a hint of petrol.
Not petrol in the direct sense, but rather the kind of petrol you think of when you imagine a garage with a few neat vintage cars that are also driven from time to time. The smell that wafts around your nose.
Leather seats.
Leather soft top.
Now the leather (I'm thinking of dark brown suede) comes more and more to the fore. However, it never becomes the direct star of the show throughout the entire process.
Rather, it is a very well interwoven construct that does not put any single component too much in the spotlight.
As it progresses, it becomes subtly spicier.
It also becomes more fruity and mossy.
Supported by the chypre-like backbone, the fragrance lasts in this quality for around 7 hours.

The "Homme Anniversary | XerJoff" is definitely not a fragrance that changes every few minutes. But it doesn't have to, and its wearer will appreciate this.
Rather, it shines with its multifaceted depth, which will happily accompany you throughout the day.

After said time (about a working day), the gasoline, fruit and leather recede almost completely, and what remains on my skin is a hint of chocolate and vanilla, bedded on the most subtle moss.

A clear test recommendation from me.
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SilentWater 11 months ago 8 4
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Just imagine..
...you are the CEO of one of the most respected designer maisons and hire one of the best perfumers in the world to persuade your customers to buy from you. Ingenious strategy. (Everyone does it, but because you're doing it now, it's suddenly very, very special)
The quality of these fragrances must of course match the products you are already marketing. Starting with the packaging, the bottle and the contents of the bottle.
Your perfumer is churning out one hit after another in no time at all - btw, chapeau, Monsieur Cavallier-Belletrud!
If I'm not mistaken, that's about 41 perfumes since 2016. It's like owning a huge construction company and hiring Hans Zimmer to compose a separate work for each elevator in the various buildings. And just imagine, despite the high volume of orders, it will still be good! Elevator music in good. If that's not a gap in the market...
But back to the actual topic - now imagine one of these hits is a perfume, so simple, so easy, and also so good that almost everyone likes it. It doesn't appeal to a smaller target group (as is often the case with niche fragrances), but to a huge target group - because it is clean, fresh, calming, unique, uncomplicated and of very good quality.
Everyone likes it clean, everyone likes it fresh.
Even many niche noses among us like it, even if they don't understand the hype. Not to mention the price.
But I think the price is the main point of contention here.

To be honest, I don't understand the hype either. But I do understand the price, because it is LV. But is the Imagination worth the price? Yes. personally, I would still find 140-160€ okay for it, but at 280€ we're talking about double what I would actually be willing to spend on this kind of perfume.
But you can say what you like, the marketing, the packaging, the bottle, everything is almost perfect with LV.
The quality and performance of the perfume is undoubtedly very good, and in general the fragrances from this house stand out quite clearly from the rest of the designer segment.
LV is therefore still a designer, but in my view it does things a little differently / better than the rest, and could never market itself as "cheap" anyway. Why?

Imagine you are no longer the CEO but a long-time Louis Vuitton customer. When you enter the boutique, you are addressed by name and welcomed with the house champagne. You are one of the first customers to have the privilege of buying the latest collection. You buy several items from the latest collection and take the new Speedy 40 as a gift for your best friend. During your visit to the LV boutique, you also see the beautiful perfume bottles. 280 for 100ml (in the case of Imagination) seems reasonable, so as a customer you automatically assume that the quality and creativity of the fragrances are on the same level as the rest of their products. Whether for yourself or as a gift - you are worth it. So you pick up the Imagination and the Cœur Battant (which I also really like) for your girlfriend.
If the price here was €140, for example, you would most likely pass it by because you are simply used to "better". You probably wouldn't even try it, even if it was the best fragrance in the world. It also simply wouldn't fit into the overall Louis Vuitton concept.

Now imagine you were the CEO of this brand again. Would you do it differently? Would you offer your fragrances at a lower price and run the risk of losing existing customers and exclusivity? Definitely not. Otherwise you wouldn't be the CEO of the world's largest luxury goods company and the richest man on the planet.

Reminds me a bit of this interview with Jeremy Fragrance about how his own fragrances were originally very well priced, but hardly anyone bought from him. It was only when he met someone who told him that he was worth only buying fragrances above a certain price, and eventually raised the price many times over, that his sales figures increased. Sad really, isn't it?
In most cases, more expensive is not automatically better, but it is often seen as such in our society. Especially in the case of LV, the strategy of lower prices would not work, because LV would not impress its existing clientele. Here, the value of the products, apart from their quality and appearance, is ultimately also communicated psychologically via their price. And if we are completely honest, we all do this to some extent, or at least have already done it.

Admittedly, without our dear influencers, I would probably never have had the Imagination in my collection today. But I don't regret it at all, even though - apart from the perfumes - I'm not a Louis Vuitton customer.

Last but not least, the fragrance itself:
Black tea, neroli, cedar and cinnamon are blown into the environment with a concentrated load of ambroxan. At the very beginning, bergamot and ginger join the fire to instantly lift your spirits. However, this lively, slightly spicy citrus fades after five minutes and fades into the background. What remains - throughout the day - is a clean, soapy aura of the above-mentioned notes. 3 sprays on the skin are enough to take over entire rooms with its scent for the whole day (12h+).

Oh yes, your imagination - or "Imagination" in French - would be a real success if your name was Bernard Arnault.

But even without his name, you can imagine wonderful things if you wear this fragrance around you all day like a gentle cloud.

I wouldn't want to be without Imagination, but I advise everyone to test it before investing in a whole bottle.
4 Comments
SilentWater 11 months ago 7 3
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
Oltremare : a journey overseas
First of all: describing this fragrance was no easy task. Because I don't know of anything comparable from the part of the perfume world that I have been able to get to know so far.
However, its clear, deep blue bottle with the solid, golden cap makes a visual statement that should give you a certain idea of what to expect. The expectations were completely exceeded (at least for me).

The first thing that comes to mind is the following:

Sparkling, fruity freshness on the one hand
Soothing teen notes on the other
In between, a light aquatic and blue - (subtle) green freshness

Oltremare translates from Italian as "overseas".
If you let that sink in, the name really is a brilliant choice.
Bottega Italiana Spigo (BOIS) 1920 is a small family business based in Florence, Italy and has become one of my favorite niche houses. I find it fascinating how BOIS 1920 always manages to bring Italian charm into a bottle.
In addition to countless specialties, Italy is known for its sun-ripened, delicious citrus fruits and its beautiful views, whether inland or by the sea
And that's where our (aromatic) journey begins.
We experience the wonderfully invigorating citrus and fruitiness on the one hand, the calming effect of tea and subtle green notes on the other - and the aquatic, fresh blue "in between", if you like.
Accordingly, Oltremare not only embodies the land on the other side of the pond (presumably South America due to the mate tea) but also a wonderful journey there.

For me, Oltremare is a fragrance of contrasts. At the same time, however, it is absolutely round and harmonious. I always think of yin and yang.

This fragrance has a relatively linear progression and doesn't change much on the skin - which I very much welcome in this case, because I find Oltremare simply beautiful from the very first second. Only this tingling phenomenon diminishes somewhat towards the end, and it becomes even calmer, woodier.

I would describe Oltremare as one of the top 10 fragrances that will never leave my collection, because for me it is so positive, so bright and so unique.

But back to the topic: what does Oltremare actually smell like?
When you spray on Oltremare, you get a load of sparkling, sparkling, fresh citrus notes, paired with a wonderful acidity and fruitiness of rhubarb, which perfectly complement the gentle, calm radiance of tea and a slightly aquatic, blue freshness from the beginning to the end of the fragrance. Ambroxan is certainly also involved here, as the fragrance pushes forward very strongly, especially in the first 1-2 hours, and has a very strong radiance. After this time, the sillage lasts for a further 2 hours, after which it slowly fades towards the skin. Longevity for this freshie is fully in order with easily 8h. Still easily perceptible on clothing the next day.

I recommend everyone to take a look at BOIS 1920 and their creations, especially the Oltremare - an absolute dream for the summer.
3 Comments
SilentWater 11 months ago 4
6
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
7
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
The name says it all!
Malibu - Party in the bay smells like a freshly prepared caipirinha which, unlike a normal caipi, contains a very small shot of Malibu (you probably know this rum with coconut aroma) in addition to the cachaça.
Coconut is therefore very subtle but still present.
It is not a natural coconut, but, as in Malibu rum, an artificially scented coconut.
I find this absolutely coherent in this fragrance concept, and think that the synthetics in this part of the fragrance fit perfectly.
The rest smells very natural.
The result is extremely authentic, simple, delicious & boozy.

Once applied, Simone Andreoli transports me straight to a (party) beach.
I was in Croatia a few years ago at the Zrce party beach and the first time I sniffed this fragrance, I immediately thought of the party atmosphere there. It's really cool how the name of a fragrance can convey exactly what it's about.

It just smells like a party, or a "flag" - please don't get me wrong, but that's the vibe that Simone Andreoli creates for me with this perfume. And he achieves this in an incredibly realistic and authentic way.

Accordingly, Malibu is really only suitable for summer and leisure time. Under no circumstances in the office or in winter (unless you want to counteract winter depression :))

Before you buy: a realistic alternative is to simply apply sun oil (which smells of coconut) and get drunk with plenty of caipirinha.
The resulting odor conglomeration of the caipirinha plume + suntan oil should smell exactly the same - depending on the suntan oil used.

For those who want to do the above on a daily basis during their vacation anyway, Simone Andreoli - Party in the bay is rather superfluous.

But if you want to smell the same or feel this vibe without necessarily doing the above, want to do without alcohol or prefer to drink something else, you will get your money's worth with Malibu - Party in the bay.

Joking aside and on the subject of alcohol: I hardly drink any alcohol and don't want to encourage it.
I also don't like or wear fragrances that are boozy, but I still appreciate such creations because they have something to say.
In this case, the message is very clear: a party on the beach

The performance of this Eau de Parfum Intense is very solid in my opinion. The sillage is quite decent in the first 3-4 hours, about an arm's length. After that, it wears off quite quickly and stays close to the skin for another 3 hours.

Definitely also blind-buy safe if you like what you read.

Thanks for reading :)
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