Smokeyranger
Reviews
Detailed
Memo Leather meets Ombre Leather
This is in the range of several warm, spicy woody designer fragrances. BUT. It doesn't overdose on the powder like YSL, Prada, Givenchy, etc. The tonka and leather accord certainly dial up a significant softness, don't get me wrong, but the dark vetiver in the opening lasts through a fair bit of the mid. The citrus top notes keep the vetiver just fresh enough to be palatable for most. This is strictly fall and winter wear unless your daily routine is purposefully designed to minimize all exposure to real sunlight.
That first 30 minutes or so felt like a mix of all the things I like from three Cuirs Nomades selections I've sampled from Memo: Irish, Italian, and Russian Leather. The freshly-dyed black leather of Irish, the softness of Italian, and the spices from Russian.
As the dark smoke notes fade, the fragrance becomes much more appealing to mainstream noses. Thankfully, the Grojsman accord never shows up to ruin the experience, IMO. I was reminded of La Nuit de l'Homme, Uomo Born in Roma, Gentleman Boisee, and other "warm, sensual date-night" scents marketed as masculine.
Conclusion: this is more challenging than Ombre Leather, Spicebomb Dark Leather, and other designer leather fragrances. It's unique characteristics aren't glossed over by powdery florals like so many other designer brands. For being a 10-year old release, it has more appeal to the nose that desires individuality over the mass appeal and safety of current designer offerings.
That first 30 minutes or so felt like a mix of all the things I like from three Cuirs Nomades selections I've sampled from Memo: Irish, Italian, and Russian Leather. The freshly-dyed black leather of Irish, the softness of Italian, and the spices from Russian.
As the dark smoke notes fade, the fragrance becomes much more appealing to mainstream noses. Thankfully, the Grojsman accord never shows up to ruin the experience, IMO. I was reminded of La Nuit de l'Homme, Uomo Born in Roma, Gentleman Boisee, and other "warm, sensual date-night" scents marketed as masculine.
Conclusion: this is more challenging than Ombre Leather, Spicebomb Dark Leather, and other designer leather fragrances. It's unique characteristics aren't glossed over by powdery florals like so many other designer brands. For being a 10-year old release, it has more appeal to the nose that desires individuality over the mass appeal and safety of current designer offerings.
