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Trendy (Jordi Fernandez, Antoine Maisondieu & Olivier Pescheux, 2019)
Explorer is like a best-of compilation of trends in perfumery nowadays. It takes already known and beautiful Aventus DNA and pairs it with the molecule of the moment – Ambroxan that gives that shower gel, musky and clean vibe. Explorer opens up with sweet bergamot and this fleeting leathery notes, to my nose very similar to Zara Vibrant Leather. Like Jerome Epinette was a part of the team. While Vibrant Leather continues to follow Aventus’ footsteps, Explorer deviates a little bit and successfully introduces a note of clary sage which I really like. From now on Ambroxan takes the main play, accompanied by a light touch of pepper and some discreet synthetic woody and green patchouli aspects.
I have to admit, Explorer smells good. The scent profile is pleasing and versatile. Every occasion is a good occasion for Explorer. It is not good as Creed Aventus. I personally even prefer Zara Vibrant Leather, but somehow in my opinion is upgrade from Dior Sauvage and Dior Homme 2020. There is nothing to dislike in Explorer, except for the complete lack of originality. Does somebody with a bog collection needs it? No, but Explorer is an ideal fragrance for people who only needs one fragrance and wanted to smell good, trendy and fun. Nothing more, but nothing less. And the bottle looks great.
Rating: 6/10
I have to admit, Explorer smells good. The scent profile is pleasing and versatile. Every occasion is a good occasion for Explorer. It is not good as Creed Aventus. I personally even prefer Zara Vibrant Leather, but somehow in my opinion is upgrade from Dior Sauvage and Dior Homme 2020. There is nothing to dislike in Explorer, except for the complete lack of originality. Does somebody with a bog collection needs it? No, but Explorer is an ideal fragrance for people who only needs one fragrance and wanted to smell good, trendy and fun. Nothing more, but nothing less. And the bottle looks great.
Rating: 6/10
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Summer In Rome (Annick Menardo, 2017)
Scentrack: Matia Bazar – Vacanze Romane
Although this version of Roma Uomo is called Cedro (Italian for cedar) and possesses beautiful teal color, in my opinion woody notes in the composition are pretty hidden. The more appropriate name should be Summer or Acqua. The Strong Firmenich’s Cascalone note is responsible for this fresh and salty summer vibe.
Cedro opens up with salty and ozonic kick of Cascalone, a derivate of legendary Calone, accompanied by the flat and synthetic mandarin note. The synthetic and powdery vanilla immediately comes in the game. In the background there are some kind pale floral notes that are hard to identify, and some muted woody aspects. This floral and vanilla sweetness recreated some bubblegum-like aspects. The note breakdown suggests much more that I can actually pinpoint. Such a pity, because I expected a woody version of classic Roma Uomo from Annick Menardo. Cedro smells very much like the original Roma Uomo, even more similar to the original than current devastating reformulation of Roma Uomo. Another similar creation is Diesel Fuel for Life Men, a collaboration with Jacques Cavallier, where the fruity bubble gum part is successfully welded with a hard core masculine fougere.
Cedro is an easy to wear summer creation with strong 90’s vibe, which unfortunately does not deliver all the promised. The composition is very synthetic and performance is subpar. Instead of bringing new flankers, I would like that Laura Biagiotti company finally releases a formulation of Roma Uomo truer to the original and rerelease the legendary Venezia Uomo.
Although this version of Roma Uomo is called Cedro (Italian for cedar) and possesses beautiful teal color, in my opinion woody notes in the composition are pretty hidden. The more appropriate name should be Summer or Acqua. The Strong Firmenich’s Cascalone note is responsible for this fresh and salty summer vibe.
Cedro opens up with salty and ozonic kick of Cascalone, a derivate of legendary Calone, accompanied by the flat and synthetic mandarin note. The synthetic and powdery vanilla immediately comes in the game. In the background there are some kind pale floral notes that are hard to identify, and some muted woody aspects. This floral and vanilla sweetness recreated some bubblegum-like aspects. The note breakdown suggests much more that I can actually pinpoint. Such a pity, because I expected a woody version of classic Roma Uomo from Annick Menardo. Cedro smells very much like the original Roma Uomo, even more similar to the original than current devastating reformulation of Roma Uomo. Another similar creation is Diesel Fuel for Life Men, a collaboration with Jacques Cavallier, where the fruity bubble gum part is successfully welded with a hard core masculine fougere.
Cedro is an easy to wear summer creation with strong 90’s vibe, which unfortunately does not deliver all the promised. The composition is very synthetic and performance is subpar. Instead of bringing new flankers, I would like that Laura Biagiotti company finally releases a formulation of Roma Uomo truer to the original and rerelease the legendary Venezia Uomo.
Sweet Fall (Thierry Wasser, 2014)
Scentrack: The Robert Glasper Trio – So Beautiful
L’Homme Ideal immediately starts with a pronounced almond note paired with Tonka bean, the hallmark of the line. A pale citrus note is present at the opening, reminding me of some orange peel dessert. The almond-Tonka bean combo gives the impression of marzipan or sweet Italian liquor amaretto. I have been very fond of benzaldehyde smell of almonds since my art classes in elementary school and glue we used in our creations. The rosemary note of Mediterranean is the key during the opening phase - it gives the balance and juxtaposition toward the other gourmand notes. During the middle phase of the fragrance, amaretto and Tonka bean with some tobacco nuances are even more pronounced, while the other notes gradually fade. Base notes of cedar and vetiver are well-hidden and revealed after Tonka lets them out. While being a gourmand, L’Homme Ideal is surprisingly easy to wear even in business occasions, and that is achieved by meticulous balancing.
L’Homme Ideal is sweet, but not overly sweet. Classy, yet romantic. Almost linear yet complicated enough. Not ideal, but ideal for fall.
L’Homme Ideal immediately starts with a pronounced almond note paired with Tonka bean, the hallmark of the line. A pale citrus note is present at the opening, reminding me of some orange peel dessert. The almond-Tonka bean combo gives the impression of marzipan or sweet Italian liquor amaretto. I have been very fond of benzaldehyde smell of almonds since my art classes in elementary school and glue we used in our creations. The rosemary note of Mediterranean is the key during the opening phase - it gives the balance and juxtaposition toward the other gourmand notes. During the middle phase of the fragrance, amaretto and Tonka bean with some tobacco nuances are even more pronounced, while the other notes gradually fade. Base notes of cedar and vetiver are well-hidden and revealed after Tonka lets them out. While being a gourmand, L’Homme Ideal is surprisingly easy to wear even in business occasions, and that is achieved by meticulous balancing.
L’Homme Ideal is sweet, but not overly sweet. Classy, yet romantic. Almost linear yet complicated enough. Not ideal, but ideal for fall.
Livin' on the Edge (Bruno Jovanovic, 2020)
Scentrack: Paradis - Sur Une Chanson En Français
Rochas is the fashion house I am really fond of. Their creations are usually very interesting by always bringing something new. For instance, Macassar, Lui, Globe, Rochas Man, Moustache. Such beautiful masculine offerings. I was somehow disappointed when L’Homme was introduced. Another amboxane bomb in a blue bottle. Another Sauvage-like shower gel for the politically correct new decade. OK, Rochas has to earn some money as well.
Yes, it has ambroxane and it possesses this Axe tedious cleanliness, but fortunately, it has some unexpected aspects. I must confess that Master Jovanovic did a remarkable job. In my opinion, this the way to sneak in a classical aspect in the contemporary creation. Rochas L’Homme opens with strong and fizzy synthetic orange note accompanied by a cheesy pineapple, cardamom, and a hefty dose of trendy ambroxane. The opening is not promising, but fortunately, the best is yet to come. Soon some classic almost fougere-ish aspects are introduced. Juniper is responsible for a delicate G&T vibe, while geranium gives this quintessential French structure. The base is somehow synthetically fleeting with again trendy Tonka bean and just a touch of clean patchouli. This Tonka is very interesting by giving me sometimes an amaretto cookie vibe. Interesting touch.
Rochas L’Homme is not the best creation I have ever smelled, but it is very skillfully composed. It is easy to wear and very contemporary, but with several hidden layers waiting to be peeled off. A nice addition to a usual grim ambroxane fragrance scene. Livin’ on the edge of an abyss.
Rochas is the fashion house I am really fond of. Their creations are usually very interesting by always bringing something new. For instance, Macassar, Lui, Globe, Rochas Man, Moustache. Such beautiful masculine offerings. I was somehow disappointed when L’Homme was introduced. Another amboxane bomb in a blue bottle. Another Sauvage-like shower gel for the politically correct new decade. OK, Rochas has to earn some money as well.
Yes, it has ambroxane and it possesses this Axe tedious cleanliness, but fortunately, it has some unexpected aspects. I must confess that Master Jovanovic did a remarkable job. In my opinion, this the way to sneak in a classical aspect in the contemporary creation. Rochas L’Homme opens with strong and fizzy synthetic orange note accompanied by a cheesy pineapple, cardamom, and a hefty dose of trendy ambroxane. The opening is not promising, but fortunately, the best is yet to come. Soon some classic almost fougere-ish aspects are introduced. Juniper is responsible for a delicate G&T vibe, while geranium gives this quintessential French structure. The base is somehow synthetically fleeting with again trendy Tonka bean and just a touch of clean patchouli. This Tonka is very interesting by giving me sometimes an amaretto cookie vibe. Interesting touch.
Rochas L’Homme is not the best creation I have ever smelled, but it is very skillfully composed. It is easy to wear and very contemporary, but with several hidden layers waiting to be peeled off. A nice addition to a usual grim ambroxane fragrance scene. Livin’ on the edge of an abyss.
Exotic Dance (Thierry Wasser, 2016)
Scentrack: Henry Mancini - Lujon
Similarly, to the older versions, the 2016 version of Guerlain Homme opens with the beautiful mojito accord of a famous Cuban cocktail. Extremely fresh mint, invigorating lime, warm rum accord and sugar cane-like sweetness are the hallmarks of the fabulous opening. A vivid olfactory representation of a tropical paradise. Absolutely gorgeous. Soon an unidentifiable sweet floral and slightly powdery accord balances this glorious opening as a bridge for the upcoming warm, woody accord of cedar, green vetiver with just a pinch of patchouli.
In my opinion, Guerlain Homme is a classy unisex composition, ideal for the warm weather. It is a beautiful juxtaposition of the fresh cocktail opening and warm woody base. A nice distance from the usual blue masculine fragrances. Charming, optimistic, and fleeting. Like a dance of palm leaves on a summer breeze. I am not sure about the position on the market of Guerlain Homme but hoping it will be in production for many years to come.
Similarly, to the older versions, the 2016 version of Guerlain Homme opens with the beautiful mojito accord of a famous Cuban cocktail. Extremely fresh mint, invigorating lime, warm rum accord and sugar cane-like sweetness are the hallmarks of the fabulous opening. A vivid olfactory representation of a tropical paradise. Absolutely gorgeous. Soon an unidentifiable sweet floral and slightly powdery accord balances this glorious opening as a bridge for the upcoming warm, woody accord of cedar, green vetiver with just a pinch of patchouli.
In my opinion, Guerlain Homme is a classy unisex composition, ideal for the warm weather. It is a beautiful juxtaposition of the fresh cocktail opening and warm woody base. A nice distance from the usual blue masculine fragrances. Charming, optimistic, and fleeting. Like a dance of palm leaves on a summer breeze. I am not sure about the position on the market of Guerlain Homme but hoping it will be in production for many years to come.
2 Comments
