Eau des Merveilles Hermès 2004 Eau de Toilette

It's easy to see why so many people love Hermès EAU DES MERVEILLES. It's citrus without being acidic. It's complex without being complicated. It's simultaneously gorgeous and subtle. It is also completely appropriate for any and every occasion and is fully unisex.

The orange scent is less insistent that this house's ORANGE VERTE cologne and concentrée versions. It's also a bit sweeter than those. Rather than a bright green orange, this orange is more ripe but without being sugary. At the same time, there is a decidedly salty quality to this composition. It reminds me of the taste of salt on one's lips after having swimmed in the ocean. Or better yet, imagine pulling up a chair at a beachside cafe for a cold glass of orange juice right after a swim. The saltiness adds just a touch of taste to the orange as it crosses your lips. Another possible comparison might be the salty-sweet quality of kettle corn, although there is no corn scent here whatsoever ... and there is unmistakable orange!

The cedar is the most dominant wood scent in this composition, and happily there is no overwhelming blast of aromachemicals here. Sure, there are aromachemicals present, but they are judiciously measured so that the orange and the cedar really do shine through from start to finish. Not only that but they have a sparkly quality, just like the design on the super nice bottle, which is covered with specks of silver, giving off the impression of light.

All in all, a quite likable creation, more so than most of the JARDIN series, to my nose. I have to admit, though, that my favorite of this series is the ELIXIR, which is much richer, living up splendidly to its name. Of course, EAU DES MERVEILLES is also well-named, because this really does feel like an eau. In fact, it's perfect for hot weather for that reason, although it can be worn any other time as well.

Anyone who is scared off by blindingly bright citrus colognes might want to give this a try to see how else orange can be done.