Un Jardin sur le Nil is a beautifully transparent green fragrance with contrasting bitter, ripe and watery aspects, all in Jean-Claude Ellena's trademark soft-focus style. It is undeniably fresh, yet also earthy and reedy; it is both unique and remarkably easy to wear. These contrasts, all held in exquisite balance, mark Sur le Nil as the work of a master at his peak.
The fragrance opens with a refreshing burst of sour fruits, comprised of soft grapefruit and green mango. This is contrasted with a bitter green-earthy accord of sharp, vegetal tomato leaf and grassy bullrush reeds. A soft floral heart of lotus blossom adds a touch of lightness, along with a dash of trademark Hermès white musk. Together, these accords create a shimmery, watery effect, even though there are none of the usual aquatic notes present.
Much later in the dry down, a subtle incense accord emerges, which provides yet another contrast to the fresh-aquatic heart; the incense blends seamlessly with the dusty, earthy reeds. Yet somehow, even at this stage, Sur le Nil manages to lose none of its lightness.
Sur le Nil shines in the spring and summer heat, yet is is surprisingly versatile all year round. I'm writing this review on a dreary winter's day, yet Sur le Nil still has the power to captivate and transport me.
It feels remarkable that something so green and naturalistic could be crafted from an abundance of synthetics. Yet this is why Ellena is such a master of his craft; his deftness in the lab is matched only by his impeccably elegant taste.
Sur le Nil is a landmark fragrance from a perfumer whose portfolio is not shy of great perfumes. To my nose, it's a modern masterpiece, and the epitome of Ellena's artistry.
