Nagaranga & Santal Citronné 100BON 2017

As soon as I learned that "Nagaranga" is by no means the neighboring crater of Ngorongoro, but rather "Mandarine," I was very curious. After all, the mention of that very fruit in conventional fragrances is often a euphemism for an overwhelming use of chemicals, which apparently exploits a similarity between Hedione and mandarin peel. At least, that was my impression after various corresponding tests, especially considering Lutens' anemic 'L'Eau Serge Lutens' and Goutal's test tube misstep 'L'Île au Thé.' Such things can only get better in the natural fragrance sector.

Now, however, mandarin does not appear in the notes at all. Perhaps it is - which would of course be perfectly fine - made from something else. In addition to the two obvious candidates listed for the top note, the mysterious "floral notes" (not mentioned on the manufacturer's page) could also be a possibility, as there are plenty of rose varieties that showcase citrus fruit ambitions of all kinds.

Indeed, the opening does not smell distinctly of mandarin to me; rather, I initially think of a nimm2 candy that can’t quite decide whether it wants to be orange or yellow. Only after a few minutes does a picture emerge from the sweetness and acidity that can pass as a ripe, albeit not overripe, mandarin. How much nicer this is than the plastic pseudo-citrus fruits from the aforementioned missteps! I suspect that a portion of lemon verbena is also involved, hidden under "floral notes." And altogether, it is not merely "nice," as the citrus landscape does hint at a certain cheesiness that remains present for a while, even as creamy aspects join in throughout the morning.

The part that begins with this is well-executed. Pleasantly balanced freshness between fruity, sweet, and sour, arranged on a creamy base that maintains a strong, bitter side. Wood, if you will, resin on the threshold of bitterness - it all fits, though I also sense an idea of rocky patchouli, reminiscent of what had delighted me in 'Limestone' by Thorn & Bloom (staying within natural fragrances). Meanwhile, the "floral notes" again open up room for speculation, reaching as far as early bloomers.

By midday, a creamy scent has emerged that is essentially balsamic-sweet, framed by a remnant of citrus fruit, bright wood, and a carefully seasoned, yet distinctly perceptible bitterness that is most likely of a woody origin. Successful.

A musky hint in the dry down puzzles me, emerging from early afternoon. Well, such a thing in a natural fragrance? But there are substitutes; this one is a particularly close example to conventional fragrances. Strangely, this leads to the scent not being able to fully deliver the usual plus of natural perfumery, namely the rich aromatic finish; it actually becomes a bit untypically one-dimensional and dull towards the end.

I thank Bellemorte for the sample.