05/20/2025

ClaireV
969 Reviews

ClaireV
1
Full throated floral chypre
Prima T is a musky floral chypre that leans on the authentic stink of natural floral absolutes for the bulk of its structure. The standout floral here is clearly the narcissus, an oily green floral note that mysteriously turns to pollen dust on the skin. Narcissus is an interesting flower because it smells fresh and green, but also funky, like the compacted layer of soiled hay in a horse stall. The fertile honk of narcissus up front is backed by a compact webbing of roses, lily, muguet, and jasmine, which, though less distinct than the narcissus, lends a beautifully creamy, retro vibe to the fragrance. While there is no moss involved, the earthy greenness of galbanum resin lends an ashy bitterness that fills in the oakmoss blank on the chypre form. The effect is like cigarette smoke blown through a bouquet of mixed flowers.
Prima T smells old-fashioned in the best possible sense. It recalls a period of perfumery where the powdery richness of flowers such as daffodils and roses were celebrated rather than relegated to the background, or God forbid, derided as old-womanish or grandmotherly. As far as examples of narcissus-centered fragrances go, Prima T is more color-saturated than the current-day version of Chamade (Guerlain), as well as creamier and more animalic than the now sadly discontinued Le Temps d’Une Fête (Parfums de Nicolaï). In other words, fans of this particular green floral style would do well to look in the direction of Prima T, especially if currently-available versions of old favorites have suffered badly through reformulation and cost-cutting exercises.
Prima T smells old-fashioned in the best possible sense. It recalls a period of perfumery where the powdery richness of flowers such as daffodils and roses were celebrated rather than relegated to the background, or God forbid, derided as old-womanish or grandmotherly. As far as examples of narcissus-centered fragrances go, Prima T is more color-saturated than the current-day version of Chamade (Guerlain), as well as creamier and more animalic than the now sadly discontinued Le Temps d’Une Fête (Parfums de Nicolaï). In other words, fans of this particular green floral style would do well to look in the direction of Prima T, especially if currently-available versions of old favorites have suffered badly through reformulation and cost-cutting exercises.



Top Notes
Galbanum
Narcissus
Violet
Heart Notes
Jasmine
Lily
Lily of the valley
Mandarin orange
Rose
Base Notes
Amber
Musk
Penang patchouli




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