Sometimes one gets the feeling that certain fragrances have found their way to you without you ever being on the lookout for them.
I can hardly remember how I stumbled upon Miguel Matos, probably like so often, as an addition to a nice fragrance mail that encouraged me to order a sample set of the brand he released under his own name. This was olfactory uncharted territory for me and creatively inspiring in the best sense, even though no fragrance managed to entice me to a purchase.
Shortly thereafter, a brand appeared under new releases on the homepage called "The Scent." And once again, Miguel Matos is involved with two fragrances that I also tested and assessed with the same result as above. Shortly after that, I saw a comment from a perfume enthusiast I greatly respect about a fragrance (in the extrait version) that emerged as the winner of the "Art and Olfaction Awards 2020." Young Hearts, then, by Miguel Matos. Could this still be coincidence?
Miguel Matos presents himself on Instagram as a modern hipster in the prime of his life. Black scruffy beard, somewhat quirky tattoos, and brimming with masculine attributes. I sincerely hope he is not one of those hipsters who start crying when sweat washes the anti-aging eye cream from their eyelids into their pupils during sports, instead of being a grizzly bear-hunting grumpy hermit. But opposites can indeed be appealing, and yes, I admit it, I also have eye cream in my bathroom ;)
Young Heart is available in 3 versions. The EdP version discussed here, an extrait that currently seems to be unavailable, and the Pure Essence variant. Fragrance oil concentration and thus the prices in ascending order.
Young Hearts EdP starts off green, unusual, and different. Right from the beginning, opinions will be divided; some will turn away and ask, "What is that?", while others will be enchanted, saying, "Wow, this is something new."
I immediately associate it with a rubbery glue scent. Glue that has been infused with green flowers and leaves for weeks. So, aromatic glue, penetrating, expressive, extraordinary. Synthetic? No, but also not really associated with any natural scents I know. At most, I could identify galbanum here. The fact that it is also referred to as a rubber resin reinforces my initial glue association.
Even though rose plays a minor role here, I wouldn't classify the fragrance as floral. Rather, oakmoss seems to put a stop to any sweetness and floral notes. The bitterness is not off-putting or harsh like in many chypre fragrances, but perfectly balanced. Speaking of chypre: according to the website, it is supposed to be a modern interpretation of the theme. In a blind test, I probably wouldn't have guessed chypre; Young Hearts presents itself as too independent and different. So, what is written there is indeed true: this is really a very contemporary variant of the old theme. As the fragrance develops, everything calms down a bit, becoming softer, more accessible without changing its character. I cannot detect a development of the fragrance towards other scent spectra.
The projection is, in my opinion, perfect. Young Hearts is not a fragrance you wear solely for yourself. It will definitely be perceived by those around you without being overwhelming (provided it is applied thoughtfully). I also find the longevity very satisfactory; reapplying during a workday is not necessary.
Although my fragrance collection covers a very wide range of my various preferences, Young Hearts is a solitary gem that adds new facets without being even remotely similar to any of my other fragrances. I have never smelled anything like it before. The more I wear the fragrance, the more I like it; the uniqueness becomes more familiar, and the fascination remains.
Miguel Matos is a star among perfumers for me. With numerous creations in recent years, he is a prolific artist (currently 49 fragrances since 2018) who seems to be going full throttle at the moment. Just recently, 4 more fragrances were released under his own brand. For me, it is only a matter of time before Victor Wong from Zoologist and he come together to create a new little creature. At least, I would very much wish for that; I would find it quite fitting.
Galbanum, oakmoss, and conifer? Sounds very tempting. However, I don't like it when galbanum leans too much towards glue.
I don't have an eye cream, but I could probably use one. Maybe it's already too late for that.
I'm not usually a big fan of green scents, but your description really piques my curiosity. And "unusual" is also intriguing. Thanks for your great description!
When I read "green, unusual, and different," my interest was piqued. My current favorite "green, unusual, and different" scent is French Lover by Malle, but I'm curious about Young Hearts.
I find Matos to be an interesting perfumer. He might be a bit hyperactive, and not all of his creations are fully developed, but some - like **Young Hearts** - show more than just talent.
Galbanum, oakmoss, patchouli in uppercase? I don't think this could be my scent, but it's definitely an interesting subject to explore. Regardless, I really enjoyed your comment. Thank you!
I admit he hasn't had much luck with his own scents for me. They smelled nice, but I rarely wore them. However, this one could be something special. Written with your pen, it sounds wonderful and intriguing. Great review!
This new one and its uniqueness sound very appealing in your beautiful review. I had the chance to participate in a sharing about it recently, but I was a bit skeptical-unfortunately. After reading your informative lines, I will definitely take on the Young Hearts.
Discovering solo fragrances is always something great, and being touched at the heart is too! So congratulations. Quick question: Is there also an eye cream version?
A review from you is a rare event, but when I find the notification in my inbox, I know it's worth reading. This time was no different: you introduced me to a fragrance that I know is something special, described in a pleasant, informative, and effortless way. It must be true: you wrote about it.
Thank you for this eye- and nose-opening description of a scent that seems to fit my taste perfectly. Matos really seems to be a name to remember, considering how little truly new stuff comes out these days! Explorer's trophy for you :))
Totally agree! I also thought right away that I had never smelled anything like it before. It kind of captivated me, but in the end, it wasn't enough for a purchase. I wouldn't wear it often enough. Great, calm, and informative comment.
So far, all of his fragrances have been too intense for me. Yes, they are different, but like with Zoologist, I can't rule out that I might like one here. Great comment from you.
I also prefer bearded hipsters who take down bears with their fists! Very nice fragrance description - the opening sounds a bit unusual, but that's what makes it unique. It's like a retro chypre for the current zeitgeist - how cool is that?
Very impressively put into words. What I've been able to test from Miguel Matos has ranged from strange to remarkable.
I count Young Hearts among the remarkable scents, although I can't wear it myself. But as a testing experience, it was definitely enriching. And it's nice to read from you again :-)
I agree on all points! I've just discovered this wonderful scent for myself, and it has quickly become my go-to fragrance. Never too much, never too little; distant, but not harshly rejecting like some classic chypres; green, but with so many nuances that delight and surprise me all day long; cool and clarifying; niche yet an everyday scent par excellence.
Great description!
Thanks a thousand! :D
The scent could, just as you describe it, also capture my heart... Thanks for sharing!
I don't have an eye cream, but I could probably use one. Maybe it's already too late for that.
I count Young Hearts among the remarkable scents, although I can't wear it myself. But as a testing experience, it was definitely enriching. And it's nice to read from you again :-)