Beloved Woman Amouage 2012

At the outset, a wave of solvent-like smell hits me, almost like that of nitro-based paints or adhesives. After a few seconds, a chypre-like fragrance unfolds. I perceive chamomile and clary sage, as well as geranium, amidst a cloud of flowers from jasmine, rose, lavender, and carnations.

Strangely enough, Beloved Woman in this phase strongly reminds me of Aromatics Elixir EdT, which was my one-and-only perfume for decades. There are also some overlaps in the fragrance pyramid between the two perfumes: clary sage, chamomile, jasmine, rose, frankincense, sandalwood, and ylang-ylang are common to both. Even though many describe the Amouage scent as very intense, it does not come close to the intensity, sillage, and longevity of Aromatics Elixir and some other 80s chypres, in my opinion.

After this floral cloud quickly recedes, there is a brief phase in which Beloved Woman develops a strangely sour note. I smell something bready and am reminded of sourdough. It is not unpleasant to me, but it clearly stands out from the accord.

Fortunately, this sourness only lasts a very short time before making way for the darker and resinous notes. Patchouli, benzoin, and frankincense are beautifully intertwined. However, for me, the scent then becomes quite quiet and has little to do with the expansively floral beginning. It has developed into a wearable fragrance without sticky sweetness, without sultry floral clouds, rather dignified and classic, with slight oriental undertones.

Beloved Woman is a pretty scent for me, but, considering my former love for Aromatics Elixir, it seems a bit too pale and smooth. The feel-good factor that Beloved Woman certainly has can be found at a lower cost in several other fragrances, in my opinion. Unfortunately, it lacks that certain something, the spirit, and the uniqueness. I find it simply too tame on me and am therefore not sad that this scent will not make a hole in my wallet.

(With heartfelt thanks to MiniGBIC for the swap)