Portrayal Man Amouage 2019

While Portrayal Man pays homage to the loud and over-the-top 80s, it's a modern take on the fougère genre. Violet leaf has a very mild gasoline nuance and you could say it's a nod to Fahrenheit, but there's much more to it. I feel like the fragrance pyramid and the floral classification don't do enough justice to this masterpiece.

The opening is green, wet and refreshing with pungent java vetiver, ozonic violet leaf and spiciness from cumin and anise. It might sound like a sharp mix, but it's surprisingly clean and uplifting. During the initial hour, the projection is huge, then it calms down and starts heading in a more soapy, almost powdery direction.

Following the classic fougère structure, you get linalool (lavender) and coumarin (tonka) which add a bit of sweetness to the scent profile. That said, the base consists of cade oil, cypriol and patchouli, so it's woody, earthy and a bit smoky. There's soft, creamy leather and I think Pierre Negrin used a gentle musk note.

Performance is impressive for such a light-handed composition - I get 8-9 hours on skin with 2 hours of great projection. This is a year-round perfume, suitable for any occasion. Portrayal Man is worth your attention if you enjoy vetiver scents with an intriguing twist.