This applies in both senses. On one hand, I am concluding my nine-part Angela Flanders testing series with "Tuberose." On the other hand, I read as a text for the fragrance: "In India, the Tuberose flower is known as … Queen of The Night. Angela’s soliflore rendering epitomizes the intoxicating warmth of this night scented flower, evoking its creamy, waxy, animalic perfume." And this claim can be considered thoroughly fulfilled.
Creamy-waxy, powerful Tuberose. At first, I am not sure if it might be carrying the so-called animal notes all on its own. After some back and forth, I think that Castoreum is involved. Additionally, I sense a camouflage-animalism, namely a hint of tar with a barely perceptible, bitter-woody, almost musty-stinky undertone. But that is all secondary, just like the hint of floor cleaner rose (the one that dances with the 'General - Summer Fresh' variety), as I know it from Montale.
This fragrance belongs to the Tuberose. And thus, it also belongs to my favorite colleague. She is completely enamored with Tuberose scents, and this one is finally strong and straightforward enough for her. I brought her the sample from London, connected only with the request to let me have a drop for commenting. I got the tube back well filled, as one test was enough - immediately the as-if daughter-in-law was tasked with getting a Bembel during a fortunately upcoming London vacation.
Over time, the fragrance indeed shows other sides. After half an hour, it remains creamy-waxy, but the wax is actually warm and rounded beneath the prominent surface, reminding me of the cozy yellow real wax candles. The Campino fruit candy twist must not be missing; I check that off towards the end of the second hour. Like with a stacking accord, all nuances are now on board, and the fragrance has become softly waxy-floral-fruity. To maintain the fruitiness from late morning on, peach is likely to serve.
"Tuberose" noticeably loses intensity already, and it has become comparatively tame. What I almost completely miss, however, is a creamy contribution from musk. There is at most a pinch in it; primarily, a floral-waxy layer remains on the skin. I think that’s great - musk would, I believe, have done more harm than good. Instead, a hidden, waxy amber note is likely at the end.
In my tests, the fragrance lasted about five hours until the aforementioned wax layer was reached, which accompanied me throughout the afternoon. By evening, a lingering hint occasionally wafted past my nose. The longevity can be extended with a stronger dosage; I just didn’t want to overwhelm my colleagues in the office.
Conclusion: A fine substance for Tuberose fans, despite the manageable core phase longevity. All others might surprisingly like it too (provided there is no pronounced aversion to Tuberose), as it offers more facets than might have been expected.
Thank you to everyone who has persevered to this point! A personal visit to one of the two Angela Flanders stores is highly recommended, even though the Grande Dame herself is unfortunately no longer with us.
Since I once owned an original version of XPEC, I've developed a fear of tuberose. In small amounts, I can handle it well, but I wasn't resilient enough for the intensity in XPEC.
Nice that you had a positive experience at the end of the testing series. For me, tuberose is unfortunately one of the worst notes, so I completely refuse to test it.
Well, it looks like your journey ended on a positive note. Tuberose is quite a thing. Even though I enjoy the scent, I hardly find any masculine tuberose.
Is it, despite the aforementioned categorization, more unisex? Because that would definitely make it interesting, as I'm always on the lookout for scents that are wearable by men and contain tuberose. It's a great, intriguing approach!
Clearly the best for last.