Artillery No. 4 - Vetivert Angela Flanders Eau de Toilette

The Columbia Road Flower Market in London is praised in countless travel guides. I was rather skeptical, after all, I don't let anything come between me and the vendor at our local weekly market. And I mean that quite seriously: We residents of the Pinneberg district are spoiled when it comes to plants!

From Liverpool Street Underground Station, a bus on line 48 quickly took us north to the Hackney Road stop. From there, it's just a few hundred meters on foot along the western end of Columbia Road to the hustle and bustle. Some people coming towards us were carrying quite decent hydrangeas, but most of the plants sticking out of the bags I would have left behind.

Alright - I admit it: I didn't come for the flower market anyway. And not for the numerous quaint, small, lovingly owner-operated shops, many of which are only open on weekends or even just on Sundays, the market day. I was there solely for the Angela Flanders fragrances and consequently got stuck right there - I didn't make it to the flower market at all. My wife assured me it was "just OK." That's good enough for me.

The shop is a small, endearingly old-fashioned place (www.angelaflanders-perfumer.com/columbia-road). Two exceptionally friendly young people served me, filling one glass vial after another, although it was regrettably mentioned that an order from Germany would probably not work out. Thus, I was practically forced to take various samples without any prospect of a sale, and to top it all off, I was recommended other perfumeries in the area. I couldn't let that stand and simply bought Vetivert after a brief sniff.

I had chosen the branch on Columbia Road not least because the one in Artillery Passage is much closer to Liverpool Street Station, as I had hoped to meet the Grande Dame in person. Unfortunately, it turned out that she had passed away a few months earlier, in April of last year, at the age of 88.

[Voice off-screen:] "Now get to the point! How is Vetivert?"

Sorry… After spraying, I initially think of a compact, earthy-sour scent, with a smoky touch of patchouli à la "Monsieur. Malle". A fresh burst pushes that aside a bit. Ethereal oils of some spices. Clove perhaps - it must be grumpy Eugenol scraping along my nasal wall. Black pepper, allspice. Rose geranium scratchiness. The corner, you know. It's difficult to make out details. So far, so…dark brown. So much for 'green'.

Within minutes, a metallic twist develops, possibly a lavender stripped of its fragrant floral components. Alongside, concentrated medium to dark wood, at least partly from the Duro corner. That Vetivert, according to the website, is "a lighter fragrance ideal for everyday use, and perfect for travel," suitable "for those who apply their perfume more liberally and frequently," I consider either a programming error (the same text appears with the newcomers) or British humor. The stuff is quite strong and dark. Especially since the earthy dark wood gains intensity in the initial phase. Whatever. It certainly has character.

During the second half hour, a familiar vetiver note emerges, which on one hand reminds me of the citrus-oriented style of the relevant Guerlains, while on the other hand has significantly stronger earthy-nutty aspects. In terms of "brightness," one could draw a kind of dimming line from the three Guerlain vetivers I know to Mrs. Flanders' work: Vetiver Sport - Vetiver EdT - Vetiver Extreme - Vetivert.

Even as it progresses, today's candidate remains sufficiently independent. While the citrus-fresh direction of the sweet grass is indeed emphasized, it overall stays denser with the rest of the scent - the Guerlains express themselves more vetiver-like. In particular, the Flanders vetiver has to laboriously earn the role of primus inter pares; especially in projection, the wood is incredibly strong. Only from late morning can I actually call Vetivert a "vetiver scent".

Towards the end, from early afternoon, it darkens again. The wood becomes stronger once more, almost tarry-smoky are the clouds that gradually push the vetiver back. The circle closes.

The bottle is simple and heavy, all scents from the Artillery line apparently get the same label, on which the respective number (and not even the name) is handwritten. The spray head works flawlessly, and the cap fits tightly.

Conclusion: A strong, dark, in my opinion clearly masculine vetiver scent, designed in a rather classic-serious manner. My rating may be somewhat influenced by the purchasing experience. I ask for your understanding. I am curious about the other treasures I brought back! And that the shop is a top tip for London visitors should now hopefully go without saying. Let's forget Harrods, Selfridges, and Co. - we don't belong there anyway.