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Apicius
10/05/2010 - 12:28 AM
2
Helpful Review
6Scent 5Longevity

Fougère Variant

Anglia Perfumery is fully dedicated to the traditional English barber shop style. The fragrances are pleasantly affordable at the moment, priced at €35 / 50 ml. In Germany, this brand can be found at The English Scent in Berlin.

Duncan is a Fougère fragrance, and it is advertised as being based on a formula from 1880 - although the Anglia Perfumery brand only came into existence in this millennium. There seem to be two interpretations of Fougère: firstly, a specific, very sharp and "fern-like" accord from the 19th century, consisting of lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss; secondly, in a more general sense, anything that has even a faint green-herbaceous hint and is not oriental.

Duncan lies somewhere in between. It is not the ancient Fougère accord, but something similar. It smells green-herbaceous and simultaneously soapy; the association with ferns is present. The fragrance is supported by a lot of musk, which makes the whole thing start off quite broad and creamy. One must have a bit of patience, as the sharpness fades somewhat, the musk steps back a little, and notes of patchouli and moss become more noticeable. This is the moment when the fragrance becomes beautiful.

Duncan is not quite as scratchy as the original Fougères. Unlike those, Duncan feels somewhat familiar to me. This accord has found its way into popular fragrance worlds since 1880, having been adapted and degenerated through numerous shower gels, bubble baths, and deodorants. One certainly does not encounter anything entirely unfamiliar here.

I find Duncan usable. For €35, no one should expect a miracle of refinement and complexity. For a small amount of money, the anglophile customer gets a somewhat altered, toned-down Fougère, wrapped in plenty of soft musk.

The old Fougère is an interesting thing. I already own the primitive, very affordable Fougère from Harry Lehmann. However, since I am spoiled, I cannot be won over by Duncan. I have since been able to experience the very lavender-heavy Fougère "Miles per Hour" by Washington Tremlett and the carefully modernized and excellent Fougère fragrance by Jacques Zolty; two high-priced perfumes that I would rather recommend in this context.
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1 Comment
FlorblancaFlorblanca 13 years ago
I only smell nutmeg blossom and nutmeg. Very strong and overpowering, and quite unpleasant, even though I like nutmeg. There are many dishes where I grate fresh nutmeg. But in the perfume, it’s too much for me; it barely gets any greener.
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