
Pollita
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Pollita
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If Hypnotic Poison were by Guerlain…
…then it would probably smell something like Aubade Le Parfum. Delphine Jelk created it shortly after her first hit at Guerlain, La Petit Robe Noire. And yet, the first fragrance from the lingerie manufacturer was positioned in the lower price segment before it was ultimately discontinued. A similar hidden gem like Bruno Banani for Women by her colleague Thierry Wasser. However, that one is still available.
In my last review, I mentioned that I often have difficulties with the works of Quentin Bisch and Sonia Constant. I find myself in a similar situation with the fragrances of the Swiss perfumer, who was born in the same year as I was. In particular, some new fragrances from the L’Art-et-la-Matiere series, especially Tobacco Honey, have made me shudder. Everything has to be louder, more intense, and fill the gymnasium. Smelling nice is increasingly taking a backseat. The reason: today's buyers want it that way, which does not mean that the perfumers, whether Jelk, Constant, or Bisch, do not master the classic scale. And as Constant and Bisch impressively demonstrated to me just a few days ago with Fragonard's Muguet, Delphine Jelk does so as well.
In fact, I already knew Aubade Le Parfum. Right at the beginning of my time with Parfumo, I received a sample from the lovely Finchen1976. The scent reminded me a lot of Tokyomilk's Let them Eat Cake, which I had once owned and still does today. In my statement, I praised especially the very affordable price. Then I forgot about Aubade Le Parfum. However, time and again, I caught a whiff of a scent on the street that reminded me exactly of what I had sniffed back then. And the fact that Aubade bears a certain resemblance to my beloved Hypnotic Poison cannot be denied. So, I jumped at the chance when I recently discovered it in the Souk and was not disappointed.
Aubade opens directly with almond and floral notes. The relationship to Dior's classic is immediately noticeable. However, the scent becomes a bit spicier due to the clove and brings overall more floral powderiness than sweetness, as in Hypnotic Poison. It is brighter and lighter. Heliotrope remains the central note. And while I would clearly categorize the Dior with its lush notes of tuberose and fruity plum for evening occasions, this one has a certain Parisian chic and is therefore also a spot-on choice for me during the day, for example, in a business context. It does have a slightly lascivious quality, and the wearer should be aware that they are indeed flirting a bit with the scent, but that is not entirely forbidden at formal occasions either. Aubade Le Parfum brings enough seriousness through its airy, floral freshness and a gentle spiciness that it actually fits into any environment. A scent with signature potential, if it weren't discontinued. If Guerlain had wanted a variant of Hypnotic Poison, it could have looked something like this. Guerlain can very well package more provocative, eye-catching fragrances in a somewhat more classic guise. The brand has already proven this to me with Mon Guerlain, which, although it never fully matched my taste, I would always prefer if I had to choose between it and many other modern classics for women.
What clearly distinguishes Aubade Le Parfum from Hypnotic Poison in its current version are its above-average longevity and sillage. My husband confirmed this as well, as he often does not perceive some of my rather shy fragrances properly. He found this one, despite only two tiny sprays, to be quite strong. And I can confirm that. I could even still clearly perceive it this morning when I woke up.
I can only say that my decision to buy it more or less blindly was right. I hadn't given it the attention it deserved back then. Perhaps I wasn't the only one.
And that's why it was gone from the market so quickly.
I would like to sincerely thank the lovely Parfuma Alucard99, from whom I was able to purchase it.
In my last review, I mentioned that I often have difficulties with the works of Quentin Bisch and Sonia Constant. I find myself in a similar situation with the fragrances of the Swiss perfumer, who was born in the same year as I was. In particular, some new fragrances from the L’Art-et-la-Matiere series, especially Tobacco Honey, have made me shudder. Everything has to be louder, more intense, and fill the gymnasium. Smelling nice is increasingly taking a backseat. The reason: today's buyers want it that way, which does not mean that the perfumers, whether Jelk, Constant, or Bisch, do not master the classic scale. And as Constant and Bisch impressively demonstrated to me just a few days ago with Fragonard's Muguet, Delphine Jelk does so as well.
In fact, I already knew Aubade Le Parfum. Right at the beginning of my time with Parfumo, I received a sample from the lovely Finchen1976. The scent reminded me a lot of Tokyomilk's Let them Eat Cake, which I had once owned and still does today. In my statement, I praised especially the very affordable price. Then I forgot about Aubade Le Parfum. However, time and again, I caught a whiff of a scent on the street that reminded me exactly of what I had sniffed back then. And the fact that Aubade bears a certain resemblance to my beloved Hypnotic Poison cannot be denied. So, I jumped at the chance when I recently discovered it in the Souk and was not disappointed.
Aubade opens directly with almond and floral notes. The relationship to Dior's classic is immediately noticeable. However, the scent becomes a bit spicier due to the clove and brings overall more floral powderiness than sweetness, as in Hypnotic Poison. It is brighter and lighter. Heliotrope remains the central note. And while I would clearly categorize the Dior with its lush notes of tuberose and fruity plum for evening occasions, this one has a certain Parisian chic and is therefore also a spot-on choice for me during the day, for example, in a business context. It does have a slightly lascivious quality, and the wearer should be aware that they are indeed flirting a bit with the scent, but that is not entirely forbidden at formal occasions either. Aubade Le Parfum brings enough seriousness through its airy, floral freshness and a gentle spiciness that it actually fits into any environment. A scent with signature potential, if it weren't discontinued. If Guerlain had wanted a variant of Hypnotic Poison, it could have looked something like this. Guerlain can very well package more provocative, eye-catching fragrances in a somewhat more classic guise. The brand has already proven this to me with Mon Guerlain, which, although it never fully matched my taste, I would always prefer if I had to choose between it and many other modern classics for women.
What clearly distinguishes Aubade Le Parfum from Hypnotic Poison in its current version are its above-average longevity and sillage. My husband confirmed this as well, as he often does not perceive some of my rather shy fragrances properly. He found this one, despite only two tiny sprays, to be quite strong. And I can confirm that. I could even still clearly perceive it this morning when I woke up.
I can only say that my decision to buy it more or less blindly was right. I hadn't given it the attention it deserved back then. Perhaps I wasn't the only one.
And that's why it was gone from the market so quickly.
I would like to sincerely thank the lovely Parfuma Alucard99, from whom I was able to purchase it.
27 Comments



Top Notes
Almond
Clove
Heart Notes
Heliotrope
Freesia
Lily of the valley
Peony
Rose
Violet
Base Notes
Musk
Vanilla
Cedarwood








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