Balmain Homme Balmain 2015

Actually, I’m more the type who likes to discover and test fragrances on my own. I don’t need personal advice. No, it’s actually quite repulsive to me. That’s why I also very reluctantly set foot in perfume stores where you are intercepted at the entrance by poorly made-up, pushy saleswomen with the words “Can I help you?”

However, when it became known in Wiesbaden that the long-established perfumery Jeannette would soon have to close forever (the building is being demolished), I finally stepped out of my comfort zone. I read - among other places here in the Parfumo forum - and heard all sorts of good things about the extraordinary niche selection, the special advice, and the warm nature of owner Gisela Gerhardt. A fine, elegant lady in her 80s who has dedicated her life to the world of fragrances.

As I entered the small shop in Ellenbogengasse (funny name), my gaze wandered over the shelves and display cases filled with bottles. There’s carpet on the floor, and a chandelier provides light on this gray day. It feels more like a living room than a sales area. “Bonjour Monsieur, may I help you?” says a firm voice as Mrs. Gerhardt approaches me. She looks younger than I expected, is neatly dressed, colorful. I smile at her. We talk for about 10 minutes about the impending end of her shop, her eyes - which now look a bit sadder - fixate on me and examine me. I notice how the topic affects her and try to steer our conversation towards fragrances. There! A scent I know. No, I even own it. “Ah, Dunhill Icon. Nice scent, I have that one too!” I say, pointing towards the shelf. “Yes, but I hope you only wear it at work. Icon you can still wear in 20 years.” Okay… That was at least a clear statement. In fact, I wear Icon rather rarely. Only in the agency and on particularly important days. But I save further explanations, as she continues: “I’ll show you a few scents that suit you better.”

She confidently grabs five bottles and places them on the counter for testing. I try to identify the scents. At least two I know by name: Van Cleef & Arpels “In New York” and Balmain “Homme.” She thinks for a moment, then also fetches “L’Homme Ideal” by Guerlain. I respond that I already know this scent and instead ask about the new one from Yves Saint Laurent (referring to “Y”). “It smells like 1,000 other scents, I didn’t include it in my selection.” Insight 1: Here is someone who still personally and carefully curates their selection, which I appreciate. Insight 2: She clearly categorizes me into the fresh-sweet-young fragrance spectrum. I’m quite okay with that, even if it hasn’t been my preferred direction so far.

I get three scents sprayed on my fingertips, two on my wrist. Right from the first scent - Balmain Homme - I experience an Aha effect. Subtly floral, slightly sweet/candy-like, but still not sticky and flat, rather somehow modern, dynamic, and quite voluminous. Buffered by a gentle touch of spice and light wood, which will increase in the next few minutes. It’s not an accentuated scent that plays with individual components, but rather a slowly evolving fragrance tapestry. I mostly perceive violet and cedarwood. It works during the day, but can also be worn quite well in the evening at a bar or club. “This is your scent, Monsieur!” she says. And she is right.

No, perhaps the wheel wasn’t reinvented olfactorily here. Perhaps Balmain Homme doesn’t score points for its particular naturalness (synthetics don’t have to be bad, see Comme des Garcons). And perhaps there are influences from Fahrenheit, Sauvage, and Co. - honestly: I don’t care at all. Balmain Homme is a pleasant, well-made, and rounded scent in its own right. By the way, it seems I’m not the only one who thinks so, as I have received more compliments for this scent than for any other in my collection so far.

Thank you, Madame Gerhardt. Thank you for everything.