24
Top Review
Fruity floral sweet-sour
A slightly unusual citrus-fresh-sour (pear!), intensely red-berry rose on a bit of sweetened saffron. A combination that imbues inner tension with clean floral notes and a distinctly deep, sour-sweet-spicy fruitiness.
Distant associations with Western rose-oud fragrances, but without oud, only with the often added, sweet-sour-spicy saffron. Here in a youthful - but not immature - fresh version. Vibrant naturalness and a somewhat saturating, artificial earthiness. A fruity floral with bite, where the fruit and floral notes appear equally balanced.
Fragrances with a similar character are Jo Malone's woefully underrated ‘Pomegranate Noir’ and Gucci's ‘Guilty Absolute pour Femme’. Both are unusually (red) fruity and underpinned with aromatic spice. The Gucci has "real" oud undertones, while the Jo Malone does without, but gently approaches it with its guaiac wood tone. Also, Maison Francis Kurkdjian's 'Baccarat Rouge 540' clearly serves as a reference here with its ethyl maltol-saffron fusion - in my eyes, the fundamental DNA of the ‘Her’ line - although in this Eau de Toilette, it is in a more reduced form. The Eau de Parfum and the Intense version are designed as sweeter and more established Baccarat Rouge 540 clones. Overall, this one here feels a bit fresher and "younger" than all mentioned.
For me, due to its pronounced sweet-sour-spicy fruitiness, it’s almost a unisex fragrance, which, because of its relatively understated composition of light and slightly dark elements, exhibits all-rounder qualities. It has a tendency towards nose fatigue due to the saturating saffron, but maintains balance thanks to the good (enough freshness!) and pleasantly restrained formulation (Louise Turner, among others, 'Lost Cherry', 'Good Girl'). Moreover, within known genre boundaries (fruity floral), it has a pleasing individuality through pear and saffron.
For me, one of the most positive surprises among designer fragrances of late.
**P.S.:**
The color of the perfume liquid is, in my view, completely misleading. It is neither a green nor an overtly transparent scent. The color of the Intense version would have been more appropriate.
Distant associations with Western rose-oud fragrances, but without oud, only with the often added, sweet-sour-spicy saffron. Here in a youthful - but not immature - fresh version. Vibrant naturalness and a somewhat saturating, artificial earthiness. A fruity floral with bite, where the fruit and floral notes appear equally balanced.
Fragrances with a similar character are Jo Malone's woefully underrated ‘Pomegranate Noir’ and Gucci's ‘Guilty Absolute pour Femme’. Both are unusually (red) fruity and underpinned with aromatic spice. The Gucci has "real" oud undertones, while the Jo Malone does without, but gently approaches it with its guaiac wood tone. Also, Maison Francis Kurkdjian's 'Baccarat Rouge 540' clearly serves as a reference here with its ethyl maltol-saffron fusion - in my eyes, the fundamental DNA of the ‘Her’ line - although in this Eau de Toilette, it is in a more reduced form. The Eau de Parfum and the Intense version are designed as sweeter and more established Baccarat Rouge 540 clones. Overall, this one here feels a bit fresher and "younger" than all mentioned.
For me, due to its pronounced sweet-sour-spicy fruitiness, it’s almost a unisex fragrance, which, because of its relatively understated composition of light and slightly dark elements, exhibits all-rounder qualities. It has a tendency towards nose fatigue due to the saturating saffron, but maintains balance thanks to the good (enough freshness!) and pleasantly restrained formulation (Louise Turner, among others, 'Lost Cherry', 'Good Girl'). Moreover, within known genre boundaries (fruity floral), it has a pleasing individuality through pear and saffron.
For me, one of the most positive surprises among designer fragrances of late.
**P.S.:**
The color of the perfume liquid is, in my view, completely misleading. It is neither a green nor an overtly transparent scent. The color of the Intense version would have been more appropriate.
Translated · Show original
15 Comments
But I'm definitely not on board with the scent. Saffron belongs in the kitchen.