Tonka bean
Vetiver
Hazelnut
Lily of the valley
Praliné
Sandalwood
Tobacco
10/16/2017
RhythmnHues
50 Reviews
RhythmnHues
Helpful Review
5
The Different Vetiver
First and foremost, immense credit must be given to Jean-Claude Ellena. Few perfumers possess the finesse and vision to craft something as nuanced and evocative as Vetiver Tonka. Ellena, one of the most distinguished perfumers of our time—and a personal favorite—demonstrates once again why his work continues to resonate so deeply.
If perfumery can be likened to music for the nose, then Ellena is a modern composer whose style echoes the impressionistic elegance of Debussy and Ravel, subtly interwoven with the romantic lyricism of Schubert, Schumann, and Brahms. His compositions are marked by minimalism and transparency, yet they are emotionally rich, ornamented with traditional, harmonious flourishes that lend them a timeless beauty. This approach is especially evident in his work for Hermès, where he seemingly enjoyed the creative freedom to fully explore his artistic vision. Vetiver Tonka may well be his pièce de résistance.
Vetiver, a grass native to India and cultivated in regions such as Haiti, Indonesia, China, Java, and Réunion, yields an essential oil with a remarkably complex olfactory profile. Depending on its origin, it can evoke notes of wood shavings, damp earth, green grass, ink, licorice, roasted sugar, and cool, humid air. A skilled perfumer must not only understand the material but also the subtle distinctions between its various strains.
Ellena constructs the fragrance around the central motif of vetiver and tonka bean, developing it through a progression of hazelnut, caramel, and cocoa-like praline notes, culminating in a delicate burnt sugar accord. This gourmand core is gently uplifted by a floral heart—likely muguet—and anchored by soft woods such as sandalwood and cedar, which lend balance and prevent the sweetness from becoming cloying. A subtle touch of tobacco adds contrast and enhances the dry, hay-like nuances of tonka bean.
The result is a fragrance that is light, airy, sweet, and effortlessly wearable. Vetiver Tonka offers a refreshingly unique interpretation of vetiver—one that is both refined and inviting. Highly recommended for those open to experiencing this versatile root through a new and imaginative lens.
10/10
If perfumery can be likened to music for the nose, then Ellena is a modern composer whose style echoes the impressionistic elegance of Debussy and Ravel, subtly interwoven with the romantic lyricism of Schubert, Schumann, and Brahms. His compositions are marked by minimalism and transparency, yet they are emotionally rich, ornamented with traditional, harmonious flourishes that lend them a timeless beauty. This approach is especially evident in his work for Hermès, where he seemingly enjoyed the creative freedom to fully explore his artistic vision. Vetiver Tonka may well be his pièce de résistance.
Vetiver, a grass native to India and cultivated in regions such as Haiti, Indonesia, China, Java, and Réunion, yields an essential oil with a remarkably complex olfactory profile. Depending on its origin, it can evoke notes of wood shavings, damp earth, green grass, ink, licorice, roasted sugar, and cool, humid air. A skilled perfumer must not only understand the material but also the subtle distinctions between its various strains.
Ellena constructs the fragrance around the central motif of vetiver and tonka bean, developing it through a progression of hazelnut, caramel, and cocoa-like praline notes, culminating in a delicate burnt sugar accord. This gourmand core is gently uplifted by a floral heart—likely muguet—and anchored by soft woods such as sandalwood and cedar, which lend balance and prevent the sweetness from becoming cloying. A subtle touch of tobacco adds contrast and enhances the dry, hay-like nuances of tonka bean.
The result is a fragrance that is light, airy, sweet, and effortlessly wearable. Vetiver Tonka offers a refreshingly unique interpretation of vetiver—one that is both refined and inviting. Highly recommended for those open to experiencing this versatile root through a new and imaginative lens.
10/10
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