When talking about vetiver, most people probably have the eponymous Eau de Toilette from Guerlain in mind. For me, it's an old-school masterpiece, but for my nose, it's a bit too scratchy and demanding to wear enjoyably. Moreover, although it dates back to 1959, I unfortunately don't know what has changed about the scent over the years or how much has been reformulated.
With my miniature bottle from a flea market (see below), I also have no idea from which era it originates, but it comes across as much softer, greener, and more vibrant.
It starts unexpectedly pleasantly plump with a lemony-fresh note, only to quickly introduce more spice and woodiness, along with the namesake vetiver. The vetiver reveals itself in its greenish yet subtly scratchy side, ensuring that the typical vetiver character is preserved while appearing beautifully rounded.
Especially the clary sage, cedar, and sandalwood do an excellent supporting job here without taking up too much space, allowing the vetiver to unfold properly. Even towards the end, everything remains on track, as befits a classic.
It comes across as noble and masculine, and could work in this style for the office, sports field, and evening events - both contemporary and timeless, though more suitable for sunny days.
Now, I don't know if my version was already this exemplary in 1957, but one can recognize this structure in many other vetiver variants from competitors - although not always as successfully as here.
For me, it's the greenish vetiver blueprint that many have oriented themselves towards and tried - even Guerlain, although for me, Carven had the edge not just in terms of the year.
Unfortunately, I only had the tilted pleasure... this version must be from the 70s since the bottle contains propellant. I could only enjoy the heart and base notes and found it a bit bland.
I like Guerlain Vetiver more... after the sharp top note, it becomes very soft, I think.
(By the way, it has been reformulated at least twice, in 2000 and 2010, due to regulations on oak moss.) According to Guerlain, the formula hasn't changed, but some of the fragrance ingredients used have.
I only know the 2008 version, and I thought it was okay (nothing more, nothing less). I think the new vetiver interpretations will probably suit my personal taste better.
I like Guerlain Vetiver more... after the sharp top note, it becomes very soft, I think.
(By the way, it has been reformulated at least twice, in 2000 and 2010, due to regulations on oak moss.) According to Guerlain, the formula hasn't changed, but some of the fragrance ingredients used have.