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Iris Mater 2014

8.7 / 10 3 Ratings
A perfume by Castello di Ama for women and men, released in 2014. The scent is powdery-woody. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Powdery
Woody
Floral
Chypre
Earthy

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
BergamotBergamot Cyclamen leafCyclamen leaf Violet leafViolet leaf
Heart Notes Heart Notes
Damask roseDamask rose OsmanthusOsmanthus
Base Notes Base Notes
Indian sandalwoodIndian sandalwood MuskMusk Orris absoluteOrris absolute Orris root CO2Orris root CO2

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
8.73 Ratings
Longevity
7.04 Ratings
Sillage
5.54 Ratings
Bottle
6.85 Ratings
Submitted by Michael, last update on 03/05/2019.

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Reviews

3 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Friedaherz

38 Reviews
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Friedaherz
Friedaherz
Very helpful Review 8  
Snow Queen
After reading the first comment by Ernstheiter about the fragrance Iris Mater here on parfumo, the scent made its way onto my wishlist at that time. Iris - bone-dry, those were words that made my heart race.

But, as it often goes, another inspiration came along, there was no time - and the fragrance fell into oblivion. However, since it was on my wishlist, I automatically got the next comment under my nose and thus, with some lovely support, also the fragrance. Particularly significant, aside from the dryness of the iris, was the mention of the violet in the second comment for me.

Ernstheiter writes in his comment about the bone-dry landscape of Tuscany.

For me, the scent evokes a completely different association. Perhaps you remember from your childhood the fairy tale of the Snow Queen by Hans Christian Andersen. Maybe even the animated film that was broadcast on television in the 70s. In any case, the scent reminds me exactly of this fairy tale. A spritz of Iris Mater triggers this metallic cold in me, which even makes me shiver a little. Just faintly, the scent of the rosebush, under which Gerda and Kay spend their time playing together in the story, before Kay is struck by the devil's splinter. But above all, this iron cold. This aspect of the fragrance slightly reminds me of Sartorial by Penhaligon’s or Snow by DFL, both of which develop a metallic scent on me - without putting the three fragrances in direct comparison.

For me, fragrances either unleash a story or an idea - or nothing at all!

With Iris Mater, it’s the fairy tale of the Snow Queen that comes to mind during the test. And even the ending fits. Because in the end, a light, beautiful floral note appears on my skin from Iris Mater, which brings warmth. Fitting for the fairy tale, in which the children return home after melting the ice with Gerda's tears.

Just as we like it in the fairy tale and, of course, in real life: all's well that ends well!

And in the end, I am glad that I got to test it. Because Iris Mater is not what I imagined under the (dry) iris. Nor under the violet leaf. And since I own Sartorial and Snow, I feel sufficiently covered in terms of metallic scents.

The craftsmanship and the story behind the fragrance are certainly very good and definitely worth a test!

Dear Leonessa, dear Ernstheiter, you did it - FINALLY, I have written a comment again. I always find it so difficult to put my impressions into words. But then it’s incredibly fun! Thank you for that!
3 Comments
Leonessa

1 Review
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Leonessa
Leonessa
Top Review 10  
dry, drier, Iris Mater
Right upon applying it to my skin, I feel this dryness like I have never experienced before. Some perfumes, like those from Profumum Roma, leave an oily film, others sit as a moist spot on the skin, this scent immediately becomes one with me, it merges with my skin. It is exactly this dryness that excites me; for a long time, I have searched in vain for this skin sensation in powdery scents.

From the very beginning, I perceive the rose, still as a closed bud, protected by its green leaves. Delicate violets accompany it on its journey, only to bloom into that one wonderful rose in the next moment.
From now on, the scent does not change anymore; it offers no surprising twist, no sophisticated transformation, it remains flower-pollen dry.

I do not smell any iris, at least not a bloom; why does Michele Marin name his fragrance Iris Mater? Mater means mother in both Latin and Greek.
It must be the rhizome of the iris, the mother of the bloom, which would also explain the appearance of the violets and, in powdered form, creates this delightful dryness.

A modern dry-structured rose-violet scent, free from overwhelming sweetness and piercing notes, making it wearable for both women and men.

Many thanks to @Ernstheiter, who made it possible for me to test this fragrance by generously sending a sample and also encouraged me to post my first comment.
7 Comments
Ernstheiter

41 Reviews
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Ernstheiter
Ernstheiter
Very helpful Review 5  
Of Wine, Fragrance, and a "Nose"
A week ago, I was at the Milan Esxence. Since I didn't want to completely overwhelm my nose in a short time, I devised a strategy that involved trying no more than three new fragrances. One of them was to be Iris Mater by Castello di Ama.

As I approached the booth, I noticed the name on the logo: Castello di Ama. I stopped in surprise and stared at it. What does Chianti Classico have to do with perfume, I wondered. "Castello di Ama" was only known to me as a winery in the heart of the Chianti region that produces excellent but also high-priced Chianti. My questioning gaze immediately caught the attention of a man behind the counter, and he took it as an opportunity to speak to me. It turned out that my conversation partner was Michele Marin, the "nose" behind the fragrance Iris Mater. I couldn't have asked for a better situation - to have the creator himself explain a new fragrance to me. And Michele Marin is a master storyteller. He described to me in vivid imagery the small town of Gaiole, where the winery is located, and the surrounding landscape, characterized by gentle hills, meadows, and stone houses, the so-called Rustici. In early spring, irises sprout everywhere, covering the landscape with colorful splashes of blue and purple flowers. And this is exactly the image he wanted to translate olfactorily with Iris Mater. But did he succeed?

When I see iris on a fragrance pyramid, I automatically think of powderiness and a lipstick effect. Neither of these applies to Iris Mater. Even the top note is marked by a strong dryness. Despite the bergamot, the top note has nothing fresh or zesty about it. Neither rose nor osmanthus manage to refresh this dryness. The individual fragrance notes are so well blended that I find it difficult to pick out any single one. At most, I can detect bergamot at the beginning and a bit of rose as it develops. The fragrance itself does not change much and will not overwhelm anyone in terms of sillage. Although Iris Mater is an Eau de Parfum, its longevity is rather mediocre. After 3 to 4 hours, the scent is hardly perceptible on my skin.

Michele Marin manages to olfactorily convey the image of a typical hilly landscape in Tuscany with Iris Mater. The dryness evoked by the iris well captures the impression of sun-dried earth. Bertrand Duchaufour also succeeded in evoking this image of parched, dusty earth with Timbuktu, albeit with completely different fragrance notes. While Duchaufour counters the dryness with a certain fruitiness by using mango in the top note, Marin's dryness remains the main actor from beginning to end.

Iris Mater is an interesting fragrance that will appeal to many who seek something special. Personally, I find it too dry; I miss something that brightens this scent.
3 Comments

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