Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême Chanel 2012

It’s July. Outside, the sun is blazing on my skin, sweat drips from my forehead, and yet I’m just walking through the streets. Or am I? Am I not actually sitting in the office? Am I not listening to my professor giving a lecture? Or is it not actually late, with my date across from me telling me that I smell so good?

Is it really July? Isn’t it actually December, with cold wind hitting my hands, making me regret not having gloves with me?

I don’t know. But at least I know how I need to smell to not stand out. Or do I stand out? Probably, I project strongly enough for that. But negatively? I never stand out negatively. I smell too agreeable, always appropriate to the situation.

AHSEE shows its base from the moment it touches the wearer’s skin. Musk and tonka bean together with sandalwood are subtly woven into the fragrance, so that you have to search for them rather than them being overpowering. It doesn’t overshadow the two, but lets them play and refines them.

At first, mandarin and mint join in. It’s as if you’ve squeezed the mandarin, added mint, and subtly spread both over the base. Here, I like the scent the most. A balanced, fruity freshness (and rather the latter) counters the sweet base.

Now I must admit that I don’t perceive the heart note specifically. The longer the fragrance stays on the skin, the more homogeneous it smells. After a few minutes, it becomes harder for me to pick out individual notes. I don’t really find sage and black pepper. But still, the fragrance develops quite a bit.

The mandarin makes way after a short time; after an hour, the fruit is no longer directly perceptible. The mint remains, bringing its characteristic freshness, but not in the same strength.

The sweetness of the base now takes over, and the freshness is no longer such a good counterbalance. The former now expresses itself a bit powdery, extremely pleasant. The latter now does just what it needs to do to remain present and at least steal some of the intensity from what lies beneath it.

In the further course, not much more happens. After a few hours, the fragrance presents itself as it will at the end of its lifespan.

The blend is wonderful. Nothing is too much, nothing should be more present, nothing is missing, nothing should be added. AHSEE is coherent within itself. That’s why I used the word "arbitrary" in the title: it has no real edges, it’s rather smooth. Yet there is no fragrance that smells quite like this one. Except for the other Allures, which may show slight similarities. :)

But what makes it such a good all-rounder? The answer is simple: it simply has a lot. Warm tonka bean and cool mint, powdery sweetness and countering freshness. It has seductive elements but remains down-to-earth and casual. Surprisingly, it does everything well and doesn’t sacrifice quality for its agreeable versatility.

Now I must confess: I don’t wear AHSEE very often. That’s on me. When I’m in the office, it feels too precious. I prefer to reach for something affordable like Zara’s Fresh Sandalwood, which presents itself pleasantly. On dates, I prefer a sweet-spicy fragrance like Herod. When the outside temperature approaches 40°C, a higher freshness component would be beneficial. But that’s mainly because my collection is large enough to give me so much choice. When I’ve dressed for the day, look in the mirror, and have no idea what fits my outfit, the season, and my mood? Then I gladly reach for AHSEE.

There’s just one thing it can’t do, in my opinion: be elegant. I wouldn’t want to wear it with a coat. There, it can be warmer, spicier. I wouldn’t feel comfortable in AHSEE with very elegant clothes. It’s youthful too, so perhaps unsuitable for an older clientele. Otherwise? Always wearable. At most, I would still forgo it on dates in nice restaurants or similar.

H+S are very good. Not a loud screamer like a Montale or Nasomatto, but it lasts long on the skin and shows itself. One might claim: H+S are not too strong for summer, but at the same time not worse than alternatives for winter. :)

Thank you for reading!