Misia Chanel 2015 Eau de Toilette

Shortly after registering here at Parfumo, I became aware of the “Les Exclusif - Fragrances” from the house of Chanel. Many tests and numerous moments of confusion followed before the proverbial knot was eventually untied.

Since then, “Coromandel” has definitely become one of my absolute favorite fragrances. With other representatives from the series (“28 La Pausa”, “Bois des Îles”, “Eau de Cologne”, “Sycomore”), I have something like on-off relationships, as I generally like them quite a bit, but they still don’t warrant full bottles.

What they all have in common, in my view, is an extraordinarily high quality, a very distinct recognizability, and the wonderful bottles with the great magnetic closures. In terms of price, they are still in the affordable range compared to other Chanel products (and in comparison to the competitor Dior).

In this regard, the announcement of the new fragrance “Misia” [named after Misia Sert, who was known in the first half of the 20th century as a muse, friend, and patron of numerous artists in Paris (Source: Wikipedia)] naturally made me extremely curious.

Needless to say, the sample didn’t have to wait long to be put to use ;-)

Right after spraying, I perceive one of the most beautiful top notes I have ever encountered: iris and the powdery notes. A truly dreamy duo that instantly transports me to the wardrobe of an old revue theater. The room is dark and only illuminated by the lamps at the makeup tables and mirrors. The revue dancers sit in front of them, preparing for the show. It smells very distinctly of lipstick and makeup. The powder puffs are tirelessly at work, distributing their fine powder with that typical scent throughout the room. And yet, the smell is not dry-dusty, but rather pleasantly “moist” dusty. The olfactory impression is very hard to put into words; anyone who tests the fragrance will understand what I mean.

This moment is, for me, the magical 100%-moment, because just as “Misia” is now, it would be worth the highest rating to me, and I would immediately run out to get a large bottle.

And of course, this grand opening now awakens great hope and expectation in me that there must be an enhancement, as the fragrance is still at the very beginning of its development.

But hardly have these thoughts crossed my mind when this magic simply disappears. Gone. Without a word. Without explanation. Just gone.

I have the impression that the scented skin area smells of nothing anymore. But that can't be, mustn't be, or can it?

Then, rather unexpectedly, “Misia” timidly and quietly returns. A very close mix of violet, benzoin, and tonka bean begins to support or even carry the remnants of the top notes.
But that seems to be a hopeless endeavor. The show has been canceled, and the dancers have long since removed their makeup. At best, a hint of “iris powder” lingers in the air.

Please don’t misunderstand; the base is not bad despite everything, but I am probably just getting in my own way with my expectations, fueled by these gigantic top notes, to appreciate and value it accordingly.

However, even the next attempts leave me with this one realization: “Misia” is a fragrance whose top notes are worth 100% to me, whereas I struggle significantly with the rest of the fragrance development.

“Misia” is certainly an elegant fragrance, feminine in the positive sense (still wearable by men), which starts grandly and promisingly but then falls significantly short of its potential.
I have the impression that a lot of thought was put into the top notes, but the work was then somewhat carelessly completed or the famous red thread was lost. What a pity.

I also find the longevity personally too short. After a generous 4 hours, “Misia” has completely vanished on me. And I expect much more from a Les Exclusif fragrance.

What remains? The realization that light (top notes) and shadow (the rest of “Misia”) are closely intertwined at Chanel, and unfortunately, “Misia” will not find a place in my fragrance cabinet.

Pardon!