N°19 Chanel 1971 Parfum

Hermann Hesse's wonderful "Steps" poem just came to mind, perhaps in keeping with today's Easter celebrations. Perfume pope and Chanel expert "Dacob" already pointed out on his YouTube channel almost two weeks ago - and a corresponding entry can also be found on basenotes.com - that Chanel will now withdraw all Les Exclusifs Extraits in the 15 milliliter size from the market or has already done so! So let's sincerely hope that this is only a temporary decision and that there will be a new start at some point!

In February, there was initially a hefty price increase for the extraits from - already crazy - 240 to now 280 euros, but without any availability on the homepage. Somewhat panicked, I went on the hunt for the last remaining bottles, but found hardly any offers, neither here nor in the "bay", and the few that I did find were often at horrendous prices. When I came across a good offer for "N°19" last week, I snapped it up and remembered that a few years ago I got hold of an ancient remaining bottle from the 1970s for very little money from an estate, which has been lying dormant in my cupboard ever since.

In the spirit of today's Easter with thoughts of passing and resurrection, it seemed to me that now was a good time to test it: The fairly new bottle (8601 batch) with its pale green contents, compared to the orangey-brownish reduced rest from times past.

*New*: Fresh citrus fruits, similar to those in "Cristalle, EdT" are immediately accompanied by a distinct hyacinth, the fragrance definitely takes over the room at this stage. After a few minutes, a high-quality iris gains the upper hand, jasmine and rose remain in the background, but are easily recognizable and masterfully integrated. At this stage, I recognize a great similarity to the current "Après l'Ondée" in its powderiness and delicacy. The base can only be heard close to the skin later on, the oakmoss - although listed in the ingredients - is dimmed. Overall, the fragrance is rather short-lived, at least on my skin. Noble, powdery, slightly leathery-tart and delicate, successful and beautiful, I would summarize.

*Vintage*: With such an old fragrance, the assessment is of course only possible to a limited extent. Here, the opening is much harsher, the galbanum is thick and heavy, the citrus fruits have already withered due to their age, the hyacinth is wilting. The tart and earthy notes immediately dominate, the fragrance glows in the darkest shades of green. Gradually, I can recognize a very earthy, leathery iris, the oak moss lends great depth. Figuratively speaking, I see before me a garden in spring: the ice has melted, brown and leathery leaves from the previous year lie under the bushes and trees, the ground breathes an earthy astringency. Above it, the first daffodils and lilies of the valley are bursting forth, exuding the delicate scent of flowers. The tart soil notes still dominate, but the first flowers and fresh greenery are already in the air. This old version offers more "head cinema", has more development, more poetry, while the new one is more beautiful, rounder, but also more harmless and ultimately more airy.

In the spirit of Hesse, I now think to myself with regard to Chanel's marketing policy: "We should cheerfully walk through room after room, not clinging to any of them like a home". So sometimes I allow myself a nostalgic, bitter-sweet look back, but try to live in the present and be hopeful about the future. Perhaps there will one day be a reunion with the Chanel extraits I love so much, and if not: "Life's call to us will never end... So long, heart, take your leave and be well!"