Coromandel Chanel 2019 Parfum

To all readers of this community who appreciate short and concise texts, I would like to recommend at the outset to scroll directly to the second half of this comment - this will be a bit longer. Coromandel has never been a fragrance that could be dealt with in just a few sentences, and the Extrait of this milestone also deserves a more detailed exploration (not least due to its horrendous price).

Coromandel has fascinated me from the very beginning, regardless of the fragrance concentration. For me, it is by far the most fatalistic perfume I have ever encountered. Enthusiasm or disgust, war or peace, victory or defeat - Coromandel is the exact opposite of a pleasing scent. No compromises, just clear edges. Praised or cursed by those around me, but never regarded with indifference. Wonderful! Definitely not a fragrance for all occasions, but for me, it is absolutely mood-dependent. On some days, I cannot stand Coromandel; on others, it is (as they say nowadays) indispensable. When I saw a few days ago, while casually reading, that Chanel had released a brand new Coromandel Extrait, my attention was immediately piqued.

I read the statement from Aika1547 - and I could almost hear the bang as the trap snapped shut…
less patchouli! Not so earthy! A lot of vanilla? Thank you, bring it on. Immediately.

Within 24 hours, I placed my order in Chanel's online boutique, a capitulation of the purest kind and unparalleled decadence. Never before have I bought so little perfume for so much money, never before have I dared a blind purchase in this price range. No matter - addiction is addiction, and Coromandel is, after all, Coromandel, right?
Since most readers of this detail page are probably interested in how the Extrait resembles or differs from its predecessors, I would like to compare the EdT and the EdP with the freshly launched Extrait and attempt a sort of summary overview.

Eau de Toilette (2007):
The first Coromandel I got to know. The citrus opening is extraordinary - not musty or stale, but truly high perfumery of the old school and absolutely classic. Dominating in the heart note, alongside orris root, is the massive patchouli accord, whose sour-earthy intensity excites some and repels others. I found it increasingly bothersome with each test - that smell of damp, musty earth piles that seemed to be piling up next to me overshadowed most other components and completely ruined the scent for me. The unique, beautiful base note could no longer help, that perfect golden veil of dry vanilla, musk, and incense… I parted with the decant and ventured after some time to the

Eau de Parfum (2016):
The same classic citrus opening, the almost identical scent progression. But here, patchouli is significantly reduced; the earth piles have been swept away and removed. What remains is a patchouli note that one can certainly live with, even if one usually does not like patchouli. The EdP feels softer, more mature compared to the EdT, no longer so edgy. Like a spirit that only unfolds its perfect aroma after longer aging. Unfortunately, the aging process seemed to come at the expense of longevity, which has diminished somewhat compared to the EdT. The base is again typically Coromandel - namely perfection.
Accordingly, my expectations for the Extrait were high, where patchouli was supposed to recede even further into the background. While that is true, there are far more significant differences.

Extrait (2019):
The classic Coromandel opening, the citrus note, is gone. Simply and plainly reduced. According to the fragrance pyramid, citrus fruits are supposed to be present here, but I must agree with Aika1547 that the Extrait indeed starts immediately with the heart note. This unmistakably reveals the original Coromandel, here with dominant iris. Patchouli is only faintly perceptible; the earth piles have disappeared, leaving only a few dry crumbs. Dry vanilla and incense are noticeable much earlier compared to the EdT and EdP, and this also reveals the next clear difference from the predecessors:
the Extrait has almost no scent progression. The way the scent starts is largely how it remains. The (less patchouli) heart note and the base merge early, with at least the base note remaining practically unchanged.
The scent quickly becomes skin-close, but is still slightly perceptible in the room after an hour. After 4-5 hours, I have to practically search for it on my skin; this poor longevity was also confirmed by test subjects I asked for their opinion or nose: one only perceives the scent faintly after I had dabbed it on my skin several times 3 hours earlier. I find this longevity and sillage shockingly poor for an Extrait in this price range. There is no comparison to the EdT or EdP, which are still clearly perceptible in the afternoon after 2-3 sprays in the morning… The overnight test of the Extrait also showed: what was dabbed on in the evening was practically completely gone by the next morning.

Conclusion:
I expected a kind of Coromandel under the magnifying glass, a sparkling, radiant version with less patchouli that would allow other fragrance notes to shine. This hope has only been partially fulfilled. The Extrait does forgo most of the patchouli, but also the entire top note of its predecessors - and especially their longevity. Devoted Coromandel fans from the beginning may be horrified to ask where the other half of this great fragrance has gone…
Coromandel has lost its edges in the Extrait, especially its complexity, which most fans love about the scent.
Would I have bought the bottle if I had tested the Extrait beforehand? Probably not, solely due to the poor longevity. My favorite will thus remain the EdP. I must mention in this context, however, that I have a pronounced preference for so-called heavy hitters, and my assessment here naturally reflects only my personal opinion… I am very curious to see how other users will evaluate the Extrait here.

Who will be disappointed: everyone who mourns the clear statement of the Eau de Toilette will likely find no comfort in the Extrait. The edginess that was so softened in the EdP has now completely disappeared here.
Nevertheless, Coromandel Extrait will also find its lovers, and they will be numerous when reading the comments and statements about the EdT and EdP.

Who will love it: all those who have hoped and prayed in recent years for a softer, more pleasing, gentler (quieter?) version of Coromandel, where patchouli is put in its place - there is good news and bad news.
The good: Chanel has heard your prayers. This should be the Coromandel version you have been waiting for.
The bad: 15ml for 225 euros - the fulfillment of some wishes comes at a high price; this fragrance is no exception :)