ClemensJ
26 Reviews
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ClemensJ
2
The Unknown Gem
Acknowledgment
As a participant in the vintage travel package filled with 20 minis, I would like to sincerely thank Zirkeltanz, who has enabled not only me but also others to get to know and try out the treasures of his vintage collection.Note
At the time of my comment, there were no details about the fragrance available on this page. No fragrance pyramid, no perfumer, no statements, and certainly no comments. So more or less free from the spot.*Fragrance*
Citrusy opening with - for sure - lemon, grapefruit, or mandarin. Presumably, bergamot is also included as a popular and typical ingredient. Bergamot is hardly noticeable, at least not to me. Alongside the citrus notes, there are also spicy notes - likely from galbanum/fennel.
For me, anise is definitely in play. After the citrus notes fade, the fragrance at this stage with the now beginning unfolding reminds me of Must de Cartier pour Homme (Eau Généreuse), where this very ingredient is listed.
In the middle part, floral notes appear in a minor role. I guess: lily of the valley, (rose) geranium. However, the fragrance also contains other spices. Straightforwardly, after various checks, I would estimate these to be: ginger, nutmeg, and/or sage. The floral notes are just peripheral and do not shape this fragrance in any way.
For base notes, I would certainly assume musk, amber, and woody notes. Perhaps also vetiver.
This fragrance derives its certain something from the overlapping anise-musk accords. Amber supports this. However, this special, slightly sour and musky combination is something that many find takes getting used to. Such accords have always been appreciated and sought after by only a few nowadays. By the way, it’s no wonder that this and Must de Cartier pour Homme (Eau Généreuse) have been discontinued.
Gradually, this anise-musk combo weakens and woody notes lead into the final drydown phase. Yet, a fading spicy element remains ever-present. And if one categorizes this in the green category, that fits too. For me, it is: overall herbaceous-spicy, initially citrusy, and just woody enough. Furthermore, it is not a fragrance for cold days.
I do not find it impossible that C pour Homme - having been released 4 years earlier - served as a template for Must de Cartier pour Homme. MdCpH comes with somewhat different fragrance components, yet the progression is quite similar. To clarify: Dupes and clones are not being discussed here, only existing similarities from my perspective.
The fragrance of this miniature has lost just a little bit of intensity; due to its younger age, I see the attributes as only slightly reduced. Here, my testing recommendation goes to lovers of classic men's fragrances. However, one must be able to tolerate the mentioned special anise-musk combo.
(Comment #4 on the vintage travel package)
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