Series 2: Red - Palisander Comme des Garçons 2001
18
Top Review
Unusually Unfashionable from the House of "Comme des Garçons"
One thing that cannot be said about "Comme des Garçons" is that the brand is not innovative. It is, and how.
Sometimes, however, there come, or rather: there came fragrances that scrape hard at the edge of the bearable, yes, the acceptable, or have long since gone beyond it - think of "Tar," "Garage," or "Calamus."
With "Palisander," however, they have succeeded in creating an exceedingly classic fragrance that does not fit at all with the reputation of the supposed scent rebels Buxton and Duchaufour.
While the two gentlemen were still indulging themselves here over ten years ago according to all the rules of the art, before their international careers really took off, yet at the same time sailed into calmer waters, it was the more measured Yann Vasnier and Françoise Caron who created a rather atypical CdG fragrance.
Now, the launch of the fragrance was over 12 years ago, and I must confess, I had somehow forgotten it. Back then, I tested it and found it quite nice, nothing more. Recently, however, I read that Andy Tauer counts this fragrance among his favorites alongside classics like "Knize Ten," "Habit Rouge," and "New York," and I remembered having read something similar somewhere before. So, another sample. This time, the fragrance captivated me, and I could instantly understand why Mr. Tauer places this comparatively unknown work alongside the aforementioned icons of perfumery. "Palisander" does not reach their complexity and richness by any means; it is rather slender and orchestrated with few, modest notes. And yet, the habitus is the same: classic cut, strict lines, and plenty of old-fashioned powder.
This fragrance could very well have been from the 1920s or 30s - a harsher brother of the even more powdery, almost cloying "Zizanie," for example. But no, it was created in 2001 and is still not modern at all (setting aside trendier ingredients like saffron or myrrh).
Responsible for this is the palisander note, which is at the center of the fragrance and not without reason bears its name.
Palisander, or rosewood in English, is a precious wood that faintly reminds one of vanilla, cinnamon, and also rose in scent, characterized primarily by its fine, powdery nuances. This powderiness, combined with the warmth of the wood note, has certain similarities to sandalwood but tends even more towards the sweet, fruity-floral, so that palisander evokes the association of a large, old-fashioned powder puff much more than sandalwood, which reminds me more of incense sticks and hippie shops.
So, those who do not like powdery scents should definitely keep their fingers, or rather their noses, away from this fragrance.
The two perfumers skillfully avoid any cloying sweetness that can easily arise when palisander is set in a classic oriental context. Here, however, the Caron/Vasnier team opts for sharp and bitter-spicy components like chili and saffron, as well as smoky-resinous notes like myrrh. This ensures that the powderiness of the fragrance does not take over and remains in a beautiful and exciting contrast to the warm woody base tone.
However, not much more happens. The fragrance remains woody, warm, powdery, and spicy from beginning to end. A faint, Kouros-like animal facet seems to appear when you spray the fragrance on textiles and smell it the next day, but on the skin, it remains discreetly in the background and is actually not perceivable.
Longevity and sillage are below average by today's standards, so one can rather speak of a quiet, skin-close perfume that will disappoint those looking for a room-filling scent.
I find this restrained, not at all offensive tone very pleasant and, amidst all the hustle and bustle of today, also soothing and calming.
Sometimes, of course, it can be a bit more noticeable, stronger, and more resonant, but do you want to be olfactorily in the spotlight all the time?
I certainly do not, and for that, "Palisander" is exactly the right fragrance. Let others exhaust themselves in the battle for olfactory supremacy!
I will reach for something else another time...
Sometimes, however, there come, or rather: there came fragrances that scrape hard at the edge of the bearable, yes, the acceptable, or have long since gone beyond it - think of "Tar," "Garage," or "Calamus."
With "Palisander," however, they have succeeded in creating an exceedingly classic fragrance that does not fit at all with the reputation of the supposed scent rebels Buxton and Duchaufour.
While the two gentlemen were still indulging themselves here over ten years ago according to all the rules of the art, before their international careers really took off, yet at the same time sailed into calmer waters, it was the more measured Yann Vasnier and Françoise Caron who created a rather atypical CdG fragrance.
Now, the launch of the fragrance was over 12 years ago, and I must confess, I had somehow forgotten it. Back then, I tested it and found it quite nice, nothing more. Recently, however, I read that Andy Tauer counts this fragrance among his favorites alongside classics like "Knize Ten," "Habit Rouge," and "New York," and I remembered having read something similar somewhere before. So, another sample. This time, the fragrance captivated me, and I could instantly understand why Mr. Tauer places this comparatively unknown work alongside the aforementioned icons of perfumery. "Palisander" does not reach their complexity and richness by any means; it is rather slender and orchestrated with few, modest notes. And yet, the habitus is the same: classic cut, strict lines, and plenty of old-fashioned powder.
This fragrance could very well have been from the 1920s or 30s - a harsher brother of the even more powdery, almost cloying "Zizanie," for example. But no, it was created in 2001 and is still not modern at all (setting aside trendier ingredients like saffron or myrrh).
Responsible for this is the palisander note, which is at the center of the fragrance and not without reason bears its name.
Palisander, or rosewood in English, is a precious wood that faintly reminds one of vanilla, cinnamon, and also rose in scent, characterized primarily by its fine, powdery nuances. This powderiness, combined with the warmth of the wood note, has certain similarities to sandalwood but tends even more towards the sweet, fruity-floral, so that palisander evokes the association of a large, old-fashioned powder puff much more than sandalwood, which reminds me more of incense sticks and hippie shops.
So, those who do not like powdery scents should definitely keep their fingers, or rather their noses, away from this fragrance.
The two perfumers skillfully avoid any cloying sweetness that can easily arise when palisander is set in a classic oriental context. Here, however, the Caron/Vasnier team opts for sharp and bitter-spicy components like chili and saffron, as well as smoky-resinous notes like myrrh. This ensures that the powderiness of the fragrance does not take over and remains in a beautiful and exciting contrast to the warm woody base tone.
However, not much more happens. The fragrance remains woody, warm, powdery, and spicy from beginning to end. A faint, Kouros-like animal facet seems to appear when you spray the fragrance on textiles and smell it the next day, but on the skin, it remains discreetly in the background and is actually not perceivable.
Longevity and sillage are below average by today's standards, so one can rather speak of a quiet, skin-close perfume that will disappoint those looking for a room-filling scent.
I find this restrained, not at all offensive tone very pleasant and, amidst all the hustle and bustle of today, also soothing and calming.
Sometimes, of course, it can be a bit more noticeable, stronger, and more resonant, but do you want to be olfactorily in the spotlight all the time?
I certainly do not, and for that, "Palisander" is exactly the right fragrance. Let others exhaust themselves in the battle for olfactory supremacy!
I will reach for something else another time...
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4 Comments
And it's woody anyway. In that sense, it definitely has a classic vibe.