... could be the sober conclusion of this Eau de Parfum from the Vendôme Collection by David Jourquin. However, it is not - that would be too simple. What really lies behind Cuir Mandarine is a bit more complex, yet relatively contrasting.
In the first few seconds, the scent seems a bit chaotic, as one perceives both dark, bitter-earthy and sweet-fruity notes simultaneously. A hint of leather also comes through, along with an almost stable, slightly fecal component that initially suggests Oud but quickly fades away.
Once Cuir Mandarine has somewhat sorted itself out, the composition becomes recognizable in its fundamental idea. The main role here is actually taken by the patchouli, as if freshly pulled from the ground. The tobacco also leaves its olfactory stamp on the whole. Not too strong, but pleasantly warm with a welcome hint of sweetness.
Although they are part of the name, leather and mandarin take more of a back seat, yet are present enough. The leather here feels a bit rough, while the mandarin has become more like canned fruit, thus less sweet and anything but squeaky.
A healthy pinch of pepper gives the scent a bit of spicy drive among all the other cuddly ingredients. A colleague of mine thought it was mint, which I don’t find too far-fetched.
Did I forget something? I didn’t, but anyone expecting a hefty dose of lavender will likely be disappointed and think it’s missing. It is indeed included, but wafts deep in the background. I wouldn’t be surprised if a bit of amber and benzoin actually shines through at the end, even if it’s not officially listed.
All in all, Cuir Mandarine is appealing and exceptionally crafted, almost linear. If we’re being precise, it should actually be called Patchouli Mandarine, but with Cuir or leather in the name, it’s probably more sales-oriented.
For me, it's a complete success: Something has come together that I find perfectly fitting, even though it really surprised me. You're absolutely right about the name!
Yatagan 7 years ago
Parma 7 years ago
Meggi 7 years ago