Cuir Mandarine David Jourquin 2011

Right from the start, there is indeed a proper surge of mandarin, unmistakably from a can. The fruit quickly recedes but remains present in the background for several hours, still dosy, although not as offensively as at the beginning. The lavender, which often comes off musty to me, is not perfect here (which is undoubtedly my fault), but comparatively fresh, ethereal, even opening with a minty note. Not everyone can achieve that. Good.

The resemblance between the Jourquin brothers Cuir Tabac and Cuir Mandarine seems undeniable. Both share - unsurprisingly - the same leather note at their core, a strong used leather. Coarse and uncolored; my parents had a light brown, thick-walled, roughly stitched, well-worn old dice cup. That’s what it reminds me of. My old leather school bag would also be a good choice.

Neither of the two boys, however, is a rough draft; my comparison refers to the character of the leather, not the volume. Cuir Mandarine actually tones down its note even more than its brother. Perhaps a bit too much.

For after about an hour and a half, vanilla nudges the leather note aside a bit, simultaneously moving it more into the light; the lavender has become a floating veil, spreading less scent and more lightness now. Vanilla and mandarin together occasionally convey the impression of a piece of fresh, correspondingly filled cheesecake, in which too much vanilla flavor has crept in. There’s a small part-time gourmand behind our candidate; however, that rather irritates me.

Overall, the character leans towards the creamy-soft; I therefore align myself with the previously expressed opinion and declare the scent to be definitely unisex. Yes, yes, I know you don’t care about that anyway, but it’s just a formality. The end of the scent progression arrives towards the end of the seventh hour. An amber-vanilla cheesecake note has taken over.

And while one still enjoys a blend of leather, tobacco, and now sandy-colored wood in Villarritabaco, Villabamandarino has been creamed by a classic base product. Not bad at all, but clearly inferior in direct comparison.

Many thanks to MisterE for the sample!