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Top Review
All good things come in threes!
Well, let's hope that Dior's nervous reformulation urge has finally been exhausted with the perfume version of Eau Sauvage. The third version within just five years - ouf, ça suffit maintenant, Mr. Demachy!
But true to the saying 'all good things come in threes', this third version seems to me to be the most successful one. In any case, all three are not that far apart: the first version was probably the most disparate, meaning the different components were still far from forming a unity. Here, the radiant bergamot opening, next to a strong myrrh in the heart, and there a dark vetiver on an amber base. In my perception, this did not really merge into a single entity, but rather formed distinct phases whose ends loosely overlapped. It was as if one were wearing three different fragrances one after the other.
The second version attempted a better blending of the transitions, which particularly benefited the bergamot opening, which was essentially the only moment of the fragrance that still faintly reminded one of the original scent. The fresh, bitter-citrusy start lasted a bit longer, while the myrrh was somewhat toned down. The base, in my impression, remained identical.
The third edition now further emphasizes the bergamot opening, making it the defining element of the fragrance. Similar to Roudnitska's original scent, whose citrus-fresh opening accord with the scent's characteristic Hedion/Jasmine nuances became the epitome of 'Eau Sauvage', Demachy's successor work develops the bergamot-myrrh duo (I don't smell any Elemi) into the sole trademark for this fragrance. The heart and base recede significantly, remaining present but much subdued, allowing the opening and now main accord to unfold freely and lastingly.
All in all, this is not a completely new fragrance creation, but rather a recalibration of an existing fragrance concept that evidently - this will surely be debated extensively - needed some work.
However, it should also be mentioned that the new version is not quite as potent as the two previous ones. Compared to the old Eau-de-Toilette version, the new Eau Sauvage perfume certainly has much more punch, meaning more projection and longevity, but the expansive sillage (especially of the 2012 perfume version) is clearly a thing of the past.
I don't mind that at all; on the contrary. The fragrance has always been a bit too loud and intrusive for me - it wasn't me wearing this scent, but it was wearing me. That is now different. The fragrance is still present, very much so, but no longer overbearing.
Whether the designation 'parfum' is still justified or not is up for debate, but the real parfums/extraits that I know and own are actually not that loud and showy, but rather characterized by a persistent, quite noticeable, but not offensive presence.
Just like the new version of 'Eau Sauvage Parfum'!
So my conclusion is overwhelmingly positive: not a single change that I do not welcome: the new emphasis on clearer freshness and thus a more recognizable kinship with the original, a less screaming myrrh, and a base that is not quite as sweet, paired with a more discreet appearance - that fits!
Let's see how it performs in everyday life...
But true to the saying 'all good things come in threes', this third version seems to me to be the most successful one. In any case, all three are not that far apart: the first version was probably the most disparate, meaning the different components were still far from forming a unity. Here, the radiant bergamot opening, next to a strong myrrh in the heart, and there a dark vetiver on an amber base. In my perception, this did not really merge into a single entity, but rather formed distinct phases whose ends loosely overlapped. It was as if one were wearing three different fragrances one after the other.
The second version attempted a better blending of the transitions, which particularly benefited the bergamot opening, which was essentially the only moment of the fragrance that still faintly reminded one of the original scent. The fresh, bitter-citrusy start lasted a bit longer, while the myrrh was somewhat toned down. The base, in my impression, remained identical.
The third edition now further emphasizes the bergamot opening, making it the defining element of the fragrance. Similar to Roudnitska's original scent, whose citrus-fresh opening accord with the scent's characteristic Hedion/Jasmine nuances became the epitome of 'Eau Sauvage', Demachy's successor work develops the bergamot-myrrh duo (I don't smell any Elemi) into the sole trademark for this fragrance. The heart and base recede significantly, remaining present but much subdued, allowing the opening and now main accord to unfold freely and lastingly.
All in all, this is not a completely new fragrance creation, but rather a recalibration of an existing fragrance concept that evidently - this will surely be debated extensively - needed some work.
However, it should also be mentioned that the new version is not quite as potent as the two previous ones. Compared to the old Eau-de-Toilette version, the new Eau Sauvage perfume certainly has much more punch, meaning more projection and longevity, but the expansive sillage (especially of the 2012 perfume version) is clearly a thing of the past.
I don't mind that at all; on the contrary. The fragrance has always been a bit too loud and intrusive for me - it wasn't me wearing this scent, but it was wearing me. That is now different. The fragrance is still present, very much so, but no longer overbearing.
Whether the designation 'parfum' is still justified or not is up for debate, but the real parfums/extraits that I know and own are actually not that loud and showy, but rather characterized by a persistent, quite noticeable, but not offensive presence.
Just like the new version of 'Eau Sauvage Parfum'!
So my conclusion is overwhelmingly positive: not a single change that I do not welcome: the new emphasis on clearer freshness and thus a more recognizable kinship with the original, a less screaming myrrh, and a base that is not quite as sweet, paired with a more discreet appearance - that fits!
Let's see how it performs in everyday life...
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7 Comments
I'll leave you a "Third-Try Trophy" here ;)