Dior Homme is the greatest masterpiece of Dior, although not the most hyped in the fragrance community, fortunately.
Its magic resides in its rendition as an "Adagio espressivo" and not as the "Vivace fortissimo" that prevails in some of its most famous flankers.
Dior Homme was the fragrance that initiated a new paradigm of sophistication for men, being copied multiple times by major brands and designers.... Even within Dior's own brand.
So yes, It has started a new fragrance trend which is characterized by the use of Iris - instead of Ambroxan -. Oddly, the "fragrance snobs" still don't call that line of derivative formulas: "Generic" - and there are dozens of them, now -; the only certain thing is that none of that "inspired fragrances" has achieved the perfection of Dior Homme. The success of some of these flankers and copies lies in what they offer, which is specifically more "loudness" ... And we live in a world where being "more" seems better.
... But that is not always true, and the resulting side effect in them is the loss of many, many nuances and the "musical degradation of the perfect score": Magic has never been in the iris note and no, elegance isn't a "lipstick vibe".
On the other hand, there's a legend that Dior Homme smells feminine and is absolutely false; I recognize that the initial note of iris can disorient when you smell it in a tester, for the first time. Right... But it doesn't smell feminine when you wear it: Dior Homme is exactly the scent of a modern gentleman.
What is possible, is that you have to wear a proper look... Maybe it'll give that feminine vibe to a bearded biker, full of tattoos, skewers, leather and chains... But that doesn't happen if you wear a business suit. Or a Tuxedo. Be confident, you can be sure.
... And if I remember correctly, Christian Dior never was a designer that made fashion for bearded bikers.
I have to say at this point that IMHO, Dior Homme Intense is much more feminine than Dior Homme. Yes, it's "louder", but so is the "lipstick & powdery vibe" and the iris note, which is much more isolated and sharper. It loses the audacity of the citrus accompaniment and is sheltered in a dominant and sweeter cocoa base, which loses its "dry" and woody nuances; the result is a great fragrance, no doubt - it has the DNA of the original - but more feminine, loud and coarse. And something similar happens with Dior Homme Parfum.
Instead, the original Dior Homme balances the iris, bergamot, laverder and sage notes with master precision, making them part of a perfect olfactory harmony; this section of the scent is clean, fresh and refreshing.... Pure boldness and elegance.
Then, this section is padded with the notes of cocoa and amber, in a sparkling and warm creaminess... While the vetiver, patchouli and leather begin to be heard, softly, in the piece... As a "crescendo amabile" full of sensuality, that grows to complete the perfect symphony.
... To conclude the analogy with its "prodigal flankers" (DHI & DHP), I would say that Dior Homme is like listening to the Vienna Symphony Orchestra in a magnificent auditorium, and its flankers are like a modern pop group performing at Madison Square Garden with a large section of strings (hired by the record company...).
Now:
- Longevity: > 8h (skin & clothes).
- Projection: Moderate.
- Mood: Confident, elegant, gentlemanly... Bold and classy.
- Scenario & Occasions: From business to formal events and nights, all year round (except days of extreme heat).
Conclusion: A unique creation, the first and true star of the show.