Potion Royal Black Dsquared² 2013

Potion Royal Black is a classic example of how the theme of "Oriental fragrance" should not be implemented. Eastern flair is suggested here through a wild potpourri of aromas that are generally associated with this fragrance direction, but in this case, it completely lacks harmony and balance.

Right from the start, I notice a buttery, slightly nutty note in Potion Royal Black that strongly resembles raw cookie dough. This may initially seem enticing, but as it develops, it turns out to be unpleasant and gives the fragrance a creamy, viscous consistency. Allspice and bergamot initially provide a festive flair. However, after a short time, the oily balsamic characteristic of the allspice takes over and forms an unholy alliance with a sugary sweet rose. This gives the heart note a papery, somewhat cheap undertone that repeatedly reminds one of fermented fruit.

Well-crafted oriental fragrances reveal an interesting interplay between light and heavy, dark and bright. Potion Royal Black, on the other hand, presents itself as a wall. The spices used in the fragrance are only perceivable as a unit, making it difficult to name them individually. Even the incense lacks delicate, clear elements. Heavy and oppressive, it blends into the overall picture. Finally, in the base, the woods assert their dominance. This is often my favorite part, inviting one to linger and enjoy. Not so in this case. The oud used in Potion Royal Black seems heavily influenced by chemical components, and the dreaded sharp, medicinal scent impression emerges and dominates for a long time. Only towards the very end does the fragrance calm down and indulge in a diffuse, brittle sweetness.

Overall, Potion Royal Black conveys to me an overly dense, heavy overall impression. This is all the more surprising, as the sillage of the fragrance is not actually room-filling. However, Potion Royal Black lacks grace; nothing is fanned out here, and the fragrance simply clumsily envelops the wearer. One feels simply overwhelmed.