Evolution 56 Duftanker MGO Duftmanufaktur 2023

A fragrance that is difficult to grasp at first.

Evolution finds and sometimes takes its own paths.

This fragrance combines high-quality natural ingredients from ancient traditions with synthetic aids from modern times.

And that was probably the intention of the perfumer, to sensibly unite decades of experience in the use and application of various ingredients.

What has emerged is a scent that somehow brings something from both worlds and can equally repel and excite in its revealing form.

From the very beginning, the fragrance exudes a powerful aura of primarily dry warmth with a hint of spice. Cedarwood is present here and combines with dry, light, slightly sweet oud and soft resinous balm, creating an almost ethereal connection. According to MGO, a 40-year-old Cambodian oud is used here, among other ingredients. One definitely searches in vain for "dirty" or even animalic notes from the oud. Yes, it is almost a "clean" oud. A faint rosy note subtly lingers in the background. Very soft and unobtrusive with perhaps a minimal fruity sweetness.

As it develops further, a muted, slightly peppery smoke reveals itself, leading to earthy and even green facets at times. Within the wood notes, a hint of sandalwood can be detected, which rounds the fragrance off and makes the resinous balm creamier. Additionally, a dry, coumarin-like note is recognizable, perhaps even a touch of vanilla, without making the fragrance truly sweet. A delicate hint of soft flowers adds some softness without drifting into floral territory.

But of course, the previously mentioned synthetic presence, consisting of Sylvamber dust and Ambrox veils, cannot be hidden. Depending on one's personal state of the day, this "component" comes into focus more or less strongly, and for me, it is completely tolerable and, in my opinion, well and sensibly integrated without standing out too harshly. Nevertheless, it could potentially overwhelm some "natural noses" here and there.

At the same time, the shadowy outlines of a musk creature can be discerned in the dense mist. Although it does not always present itself clearly at first, its presence can be felt. It always trots alongside, distributing its grounding calm, breathing with warm air, and carrying the finely spicy aromas from the Himalayan mountain ranges in its hoofprints. In the later dry down, the "synthesis fog" gradually clears, and a sweet-animalic musk becomes increasingly tangible. Beautiful!

With the help of these supporting roles of synthetic helpers, the fragrance can also significantly intensify its projection and sillage, whereas comparable fragrance creations can quickly become close to the body. Everything has its price...

Overall, it is a bright-projecting fragrance with a sweet-resinous balm note at its center, lightly spicy and creamy-soft balanced, and enveloped in dry woodiness.

As controversial as the fragrance may be for some, it is also special and unique in what it is and what it wants to represent. Evolution clearly knows no boundaries and cannot be easily stopped. Sometimes, a bit of courage and willingness to take risks is required. And that is exactly what MGO has definitely proven here, thus making its exciting, significant contribution to the evolutionary history of our fragrance world.