Arabian Desert Dunhill 2019

Once, the brand "Dunhill" solely represented high-quality tobacco products. The tobacco pipes from the house of "Dunhill" still embody the craftsmanship and aura of British smoking culture today. It is worth noting that Alfred Dunhill opened his successful tobacco shop in 1907, at a time when the health risks of smoking were not discussed.

Since the founding of the company, societal health awareness has increasingly changed, and by 1968, the "Dunhill" company sold its tobacco licenses to "British American Tobacco." Only the high-quality tobacco pipes and corresponding accessories continue to be manufactured and offered by "Dunhill."

In the following development, the brand ventured into lifestyle products (e.g., Montblanc) and tried to establish itself in the fashion sector as well. The image of the "Gentleman" built around smoking has always remained a defining style element.

To be honest, "Dunhill" will predominantly be synonymous with high quality for former or still practicing male smokers. However, this target group has been alienated in recent years, as "Dunhill" (now under the management of the Swiss luxury group Richemont) decided in 2008 to completely withdraw from the production and distribution of tobacco products.

But where is the journey heading? Observing the brand - which, despite its orientation towards the zeitgeist, still exclusively targets men - it becomes apparent that the range in the "men's perfumes" sector is steadily increasing.

Although aimed at a broad market (mainstream), the brand has not really succeeded in offering its fragrances extensively in Germany. Niche perfumeries seem to find the marketing and pricing too entrenched in the mainstream sector (e.g., the "Icon" series) to include them in their assortment. Many perfume chains and drugstores, on the other hand, seem to see no potential buyers for "Dunhill" products within their target audience, preventing them from being permanently placed on their shelves. Thus, it can be somewhat difficult in Germany to test the scents locally, as they are often only available in online shops.

With the "Signature Collection," "Dunhill" has been expanding into the niche market since 2019 - not least due to its pricing. Due to the limited availability, there are currently only very few ratings on "Parfumo" (as of March 2021, just five ratings for "Arabian Desert"). These suggest that it must be an outstanding EDP (with a total rating of 8.3 points).

Unfortunately, I cannot agree with this impression. The bottle is indeed outstanding and exceptionally solidly designed. Almost like a trophy, I hold the hefty bottle (with just 100 ml of content) in my hands. However, the liquid inside visually resembles diluted cola; a bad omen.

The scent starts fresh and woody. In the further development, a bit of agarwood does emerge, but it only subtly shines through. This is by no means masculine, but clearly - not least due to the hinted rose in the heart note - absolutely unisex. In my perception, musk and cardamom also align with the base accord. Aside from the initial freshness, the scent progression remains very linear.

Nothing new is ventured here; rather, it relies on tried-and-true scent patterns. Aigner N°1 Oud or Armani Eau de Nuit Oud could have served as templates. This is not poorly executed and will appeal to Oud beginners, as well as to those who enjoy Oud as a delicate hint in a woody/floral perfume.

Corresponding to the gentle scent design, the sillage is moderate with good longevity. However, there are some brands in the niche that offer qualitatively significantly better gentle Oud scents in a similar price range (e.g., MK "Oud Satin Mood").

"Arabian Desert" appears visually elegant, but lacks any recognizability in the chosen scent structure. This aimlessness can also be found in the brands "Bentley" and "Aigner." Relying solely on a traditional name does not automatically lead to the upper echelons of the fragrance world. Thus, "Dunhill" will not be able to conquer a new segment and must even - in my personal assessment - fear being discounted in online shops in the foreseeable future.

I am almost inclined to counter the currently completely exaggerated high rating on Parfumo by giving it only a 5.0. However, even this rating would not be fair. It is indeed a fundamentally solid scent that, in my opinion (considering the far too high price of almost 140 euros in the "Dunhill Shop" and the uninspired scent design), deserves a realistic rating between 6.5 and 7.

In conclusion, I would like to quote Edgar Allan Poe with a wink regarding my chosen title and express my personal disappointment about the corporate policy of the Dunhill brand: "... my mind reeled as I now saw the mighty walls burst asunder; there followed a long, roaring crash like the thunder of a thousand waterfalls, and the deep and black pond at my feet closed darkly and silently over the ruins of the house ..." - Dunhill.

p.s.: Perhaps I am mistaken, and Dunhill will ultimately transform into a phoenix from the (tobacco) ashes with its future fragrances.
;-)

………………

05.03.2023 - an interesting addition/counterstatement that I received from "Weinbergmaus" via email and would like to include here:

"So you write - I quote:
In the following development, the brand ventured into lifestyle products (e.g., Montblanc) and tried to establish itself in the fashion sector as well. The image of the "Gentleman" built around smoking has always remained a defining style element.

Now, Dunhill has NEVER bought into Montblanc! The Hamburg-based fountain pen company Montblanc was, just like Dunhill, acquired by the luxury group RICHEMONT, which was originally founded in South Africa and is now based in Switzerland.

Both Dunhill and Montblanc were granted licenses for fragrance production (perfumes) by Richemont.

This is one of the major marketers for a range of fragrances for well-known brands. The name is INTER PARFUMS
The French subsidiary - referred to as Interparfums France - has 11 well-known perfume brands in its portfolio - Montblanc yes, but not Dunhill! >>> www.interparfums.fr/en/index-2/

In contrast, the US subsidiary INTER PARFUMS Inc. has 15 well-known perfume brands.
This includes Dunhill, but not Montblanc. >>> www.interparfumsinc.com/

Although Interparfums has well-known brands, they have never really succeeded in creating true "blockbusters" and bringing them to market."