"Interesting perfumery really started at the end of the 19th century, because there were some synthetics available. Perfumery as we know it today has big doses of synthetic, and furthermore, if you want to recreate nature, you need synthetic.
I love nature, it really needs to be preserved, don't get me wrong, but this idea that everything from nature is great and everything from man is awful is a kind of new fascism."
Frédéric Malle, Interview with The Perfume Society, 14.10.2021
"Synthetic Jungle" is a genuinely honest perfume - it does not pretend that no aroma chemicals were used to create it in all its beauty and freshness.
Who doesn't know this... almost every perfume sales associate recites the little mantra:
"Here are almost (!!!) only natural substances in it, that's why the scent is much higher quality, of course, it has its price."
A promotional flyer is pulled out and the customer sees the sacred pyramid before her:
"Lemon from Sicily, mandarin from Corsica, sandalwood from India, lily of the valley from Georgia..." - everything supposedly soooo natural and very expensive.
Almost none of these advertising claims are true.
Anyone who REALLY wants something 100% natural must look into the alternative sector, which occupies a very broad space here on Parfumo, as more and more users are testing and really enjoying these "artisanal scents". (Good for them!!!) These are real niche products from non-industrial production that have nothing to do with the mainstream we encounter at Douglas, etc.
What I find cool and brave about Malle is the fact that he does not promote his expensive edition scents with the trendy natural narrative, but clearly admits that modern, industrially produced perfumes cannot do without the often negatively portrayed synthetics. Even "Jicky" contained the artificial vanillin that made Guerlain seem so innovative at the time. It really depends on HOW synthetics are used and what effect is to be achieved.
"Synthetic Jungle" starts with a huge dose of galbanum "in your face".
I love this material and suspect that it was collected somewhere in the Alborz Mountains near Karaj in Iran. But perhaps the chemistry experts among us know more about galbanum here... can it be synthetically replicated?
After the galbanum blast, a sweeter accord of jasmine and lily of the valley immediately sets in, playing with all facets of the two materials: green-fresh, wet, green-dark-steamy, jasmine-animalic, white-radiant, white-clean-synthetic.
In terms of impression, the scent now reminds me of classic models like "Alliage".
After a while, a slight patchouli note joins in, grounding the scent beautifully and making it an unpretentious companion for hours.
No fluff, no sweetness, no unnecessary ballast. A very clear formula, a path through the jungle of modern perfumery, which personally does not excite me as much as it did 15, 20 years ago... -
No, this is not a "everything was better in the past" lament, but rather a hymn to Anne Flipo and Monsieur Malle, who dared to compose and market a consistently green, fresh scent without caring about current trends.
This is how I envision a true "edition scent" - and that's why it ticks "all the right boxes" for me.
Perhaps "Synthetic Jungle" will appeal even more to perfume lovers
- I wish it that!
It's great that someone is standing up for good synthetics, which don't always have to be mainstream. I find Frédéric Malle fascinating anyway. I wasn't familiar with that quote, but it really hits the mark. And the fragrance description is well done too. Awesome!
The initial quote from Mr. Malle alone is worth diving deeper into the scent.
Galbanum in the opening, I'm hooked!
Thank you for this honest and splendid review!
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I really like it too. A very accurate review from you. I think it's great that Malle continues to operate as it does, even after being integrated into the Lauder group. For me, the scent also evokes slight Chypre associations due to its intensely green and bitter character.
…… You could really enrich the perfume section of a lifestyle magazine with your interesting, informative, and brilliantly written articles! :)) …. That was great to read again! - And now you've got me wanting to try it! 😉 Galbanum is also my thing - and I love that you know right away what to expect - same here.
I love to happily explore scents, whether synthetic, all-natural, or anything in between, just as I like it. There's so much worth smelling, like this fresh, green fragrance from Mallorca. :-))
Nice comment, thanks! And what would all the classic fans, myself included, do if there was no 'evil' synthetic stuff - a lot would be irretrievably lost. I like the scent!
Exactly! That's it. Without the scornfully made synthetics, there would be no Shalimar or Diorella, no Chanel No. 5 or Bandit. As commendable and eco-friendly as I find 100% natural fragrances, there's not a single one that excites me as much as the great classics.
True to the saying, "honesty is the best policy!" I've been interested in this scent for a long time. Now, after your great review, I'm even more intrigued. Awesome!
I always have a bit of a love-hate relationship with Malle, even though I do like a good handful of their fragrances. When it comes to synthetics (which I often complain about), it really depends on how they're crafted. This scent should actually appeal to me, as I love a generous dose of galbanum. And your comment is, once again, a real pleasure.
I wouldn't go for a consistently green, fresh scent since it doesn't match my fragrance preferences at all! However, I have a positive attitude towards synthetic or partially synthetic scents and would even prefer them over natural fragrances! So, I won't venture into the jungle, but I'm happy to go into the lab! Great review!
Oh wow, now I'm really curious! I'm good with galbanum. But even in those fragrances that are marketed as so natural, there are chemical components as scent carriers; otherwise, the stuff wouldn't last.
There are 100% natural fragrances out there. But most of the time, synthetic substances are needed for fixation... - for me, those things don't belong in the "organic/ecological" category, etc.
At first, this "in the face" was a bit too loud for me, but now I really love it. The aura of the fragrance is definitely not cozy... just like most Malle scents. That's probably why I like the brand so much. It's very well done.
I feel the same way. "Cozy" is pretty foreign to me... I just don't like those kinds of scents. That's why I find a lot of interesting options in Malle that suit my taste.
Very nice comment, and I completely agree with you! I admit that the name initially put me off a bit, but the part about Galbanum being "in your face" really catches my attention :-)
The name is just the cool part about it. There's no denying that modern perfumery can't do without synthetics, unless it's strictly "organic," which I think is fair.
I love Aliage and was looking forward to Synthetic Jungle. Unfortunately, the galbanum here is a bit too harsh for my nose. I completely agree with your thoughts on natural vs. synthetic. A good perfumer knows how to play all the notes of the fragrance keyboard.
An excellent review. Nature and synthetic can wonderfully coexist, both within a fragrance and on their own. It's the variety that makes our passion so exciting. And sometimes, synthetic actually smells more natural, or rather more beautiful, than reality does.
Galbanum in the opening, I'm hooked!
Thank you for this honest and splendid review!
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Even though it wasn't my scent, I really enjoyed reading your review...
Sounds like a lovely scent.