Tendre Pallida Emmanuel Levain 2014

Once again, an uncommented high-priced fragrance, already the second one for me today.
I will start this time with the unisex classification, which I agree with for "Tendre Pallida." I do not perceive "Tendre Pallida" as delicate or tender; it could easily be worn by men, especially since it seems to be a relatively skin-close scent.
In any case, I would like "Tendre Pallida" on men.
Overall, I find "Tendre Pallida" somewhat confusing, so I will let myself be guided by the individual developing scent phases.
"Tendre Pallida" starts disappointingly sharp, smelling slightly synthetic like violet. This seemingly synthetic note disappears after a few minutes.
After that, it develops into a dry woody and spicy floral scent. At first, it is difficult for me to distinguish iris from violet here. However, "Tendre Pallida" has a progression, and it requires a bit of patience, as fortunately, iris and violet alternate a few times, at least for me.
Rose is only perceptible to me towards the end.
"Tendre Pallida" is not a sweet fragrance with hardly any sweetness.
I do not perceive any citrus in the top note. Amber, sandalwood, and white musk make "Tendre Pallida" softer, dust-dry, powdery, and consistent. The slowly developing woody and somewhat sharp, almost biting-peppery iris note is interesting. This must be the Pallida iris mentioned in ALzD, which is also described there as a woody dry-spicy scented blue iris. This scent note remains present throughout the progression. In this respect, the fragrance delivers what is promised.
Unfortunately, a slight soapiness also arises. This could also be due to the oddly sharp iris scent combined with the sandalwood and cedar. This kind of sharp-dry spiciness with a hint of sharp sage? It is quite difficult for me to describe this scent note more precisely.
Considering the price of €150 for 100 ml, I can already give this fragrance 70% for that reason alone, as I would not buy it as a decant. I owe this valuable decant to Aggeliki. Compared to "Tendre Pallida," other iris fragrances excite me, such as "Iris Taizo" by PG.
So, "Tendre Pallida" does not truly convince me, even though it is an interesting, unusual, and well-made fragrance that anyone with a preference for iris scents should definitely test.