Wood Mystique Estēe Lauder 2011

True, I tested Wood Mystique shortly after its launch. That means I sprayed it briefly after a tour of the Munich perfume scene. Perhaps it was the unprofessional and obviously rehearsed chatter of the saleswoman, perhaps my overloaded nose, perhaps the secret sigh of "another Oud," or perhaps the expectation of experiencing something truly mystical - whatever it was, my judgment came quickly: Weighed and found wanting.

Today, I can calmly reconsider my judgment with an unburdened nose, and the result - see title. Wood Mystique opens up to me with a peppery floral note that never feels sweet or girlish for a moment. It doesn't come across as soapy like for Ergoproxy. I rather have the impression that the pepper keeps the flowers in check, while on the other hand, the floral notes soften its sharpness.

As it develops, W.M. reveals a side that bothers me a bit. Now, the already distinct Oud note combines with leather, patchouli, and cedar, and for a while, that’s too much of a good thing for me. It’s almost dusty-dry and a bit scratchy. Mind you, only for a while, because Oud quickly retreats to the background and could have been completely omitted in my opinion. The base that remains is noble, a bit smoky-leathery, and now I can understand why the fragrance ends up on various wish lists. Now, true elegance emerges that is equally expressive for any gender.

My conclusion: I made it too easy for myself during the first test; Wood Mystique is an interesting fragrance. But to give it full marks, I would have to make compromises. The opening is just so-so for me, the heart note is already overshadowed by the Oud, and only when that has faded away is the - however very long-lasting - base truly desirable for me.

Lauder has something to offer in every fragrance era and for every taste. Fresh-floral, clean-fresh, oriental, various chypres, and refined-feminine, so it is only logical that the Oud era also gets its corresponding perfume from Lauder. Even if I don’t like the fragrance 100%. I acknowledge that Lauder has not launched a wind tunnel fragrance here, and the selective sale in selected stores contributes to making Wood Mystique something special. Wood Mystique has thus opened a new chapter in Lauder's fragrance history and has not brought out the umpteenth flanker of an existing fragrance. I find that alone remarkable, and seen in that light, I consider the launch quite successful.