Paisley Cologne Geo. F. Trumper 2018

There is actually nothing really green about "Paisley," which is why I wouldn't classify it as a Fougère, but rather in the small niche of summery-light spice waters. These completely non-citrusy summer waters based on anise are original, profoundly idyllic, and touching. Comparable was Acqua di Stresa's dreamy "Calycanthus Brumae," which unfortunately is no longer in production. The citrus notes mark "Paisley" as a spring and summer fragrance, but they are merely an introductory design. After just a few seconds, they retreat and reveal a warm heart of sweet mint and star anise. The mint note is sugary, free from menthol sharpness, and evokes not the plant itself, but rather old-fashioned little mint pastilles. It merges with the anise into a powdery unity that forms the base tone of this fragrance. While the cardamom also closely hugs this base tone, the pepper stands out a bit and creates a subtle freshness. That "Paisley" (like "Calycanthus Brumae") is a quieter fragrance seems to me a completely plausible, thoroughly stylistic decision. The delicately complex nature of such fragrances can only exist in a somewhat subdued sillage; if it were stronger, it would become something else, much more pretentious. Beautiful words that reviewer Darvant finds on 'basenotes' for "Calycanthus Brumae" can also be said about "Paisley": "A poetic little shadowy juice for struggling souls."