Armani Privé - Iris Céladon Giorgio Armani 2016

Celadon ceramics, a European term for Chinese porcelain stoneware, produced from the 3rd century until the late Middle Ages, whose greenish or bluish-gray glaze was usually interspersed with fine cracks. Earlier works were rather translucent, while newer ones are opaque and the color also reminiscent of jade. Derived from, and naming the term *green celadon color was: *Céladon, the always green-clad, shy young man and hero from Honoré d'Urfé's pastoral novel Astrée, in which the main part tells of the love of the shepherd Céladon for the shepherdess Astrée.
Celadon, gray-green-gray-blue, also appearing a bit cool, ethereal bitter floral scent of irises shimmers through the aldehyde of the top note, which presents itself as both delicately soapy and waxy, milky, and somewhat airy. It is characterized by a quickly fading script, and just as the glaze of a ceramic allows the vessel to shine through, it is presented to you in a shadowy manner before it withdraws. A waxy layer of jasmine, a layer of unsweetened elegance envelops and dominates the fragile bitterness of the iris blossom. In this phase of transition, I cannot decide whether I have more wax or leather, soft washed leather in my nose. It is overall a leathery, waxy floral, citrus-fruity impression, polished & Cashmeran coated. Almost abruptly, rather wide-legged, sharp-minty patchouli steps into the beginning heart note. Resin, it becomes resinous like myrrh & elemi, with a hint of chamomile (band-aid). And someone sprinkles cardamom pods into the scent. Spiciness peels itself from the bitterness of the iris blossom, giving the fragrance an oriental twist, warm-spicy, like the crust of baked bread lying in a cool chamber. The ginger-like citrus sharpness of the cardamom stands clearly beside the mint sharpness of the patchouli, which develops warmly like hay, accompanying the scent until the end. With the departure of the iris blossom, its floral, hand-like bitterness fades, leaving behind the ginger and cardamom. The unsweetened, matte dry scent of the iris root pushes in, digs in like crackle now from all sides, spreading out with and within it: the unsweetened, matte dry scent of the iris root. A delicate-synthetic (I have been unable to shake the impression of a good portion of Iso E Super for some time now) and a rough-oriental side seem to merge. Now resins, spices, the citrus-fruity jasmine note, and a multifaceted iris root begin to mix. It becomes increasingly softer, cozier in scent. Heliotropin powdery sweetness spreads out, now and then pale scented violets wave from the rhizome, then again the root appears richly dipped in white cocoa butter. Delicately, I perceive cinnamon & clove, there might also be a trace of anisaldehyde paired with iris (Jonone, Irone?). As it moves into the base, the cozy whipped cream note intensifies, the scent becomes skin-like, sensual, musky Ambrettolide cozy, also very smooth, with a woody, nutty twist. Cashmeran and tamed patchouli ground the scent. After five hours, a soft smooth, spicy whisper remains, and that’s it.
How the scent performs on men's skin, hmm, that would have to be tried. I find the scent, despite considerable earthy spiciness, rather feminine. I have two fragrances in my nose that it reminds me of. On the one hand, it is (in the heart) -> Cuir de R'Eve and on the other hand, from the heart and then really for me a twin -> 1826- Eugénie de Montijo.
Iris Celadon appears more subtle, perhaps simply different synthetically;) (no Ambroxan, as my nasal trigeminal olfactory system would respond with migraines) and with a less pronounced Armani note;D or rather, it shows itself + pulls back just in time so that it doesn’t really bother me.
The fragrance is in any case, almost a bit different.
The color scheme in Armani's Spring-Summer collection;)
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