Guerlain looks back on 190 years, and this fragrance is supposed to be the one that appropriately describes the history of this company?
Not really.
It is magnificent, without a doubt. I don’t say this just because I’ve been walking around for months with the “poor man’s version,” the EdP, as my signature scent. But because it is crafted excellently, modern - without copying! - durable and wearable.
But! Is it worthy? What is it supposed to tell us? Why is it the way it is (almost pseudo-eco?)
I need to bring up a statement from Thierry Wasser, Guerlain's rockstar perfumer. He said, in essence, that he is paid by Guerlain to bring profits to the quintessentially French company. Refreshingly honest, a bit cheeky, and disillusioning for the customer. We all want a bit of illusion!
Nevertheless, it is a fact that Guerlain is not the Salvation Army, but LVMH.
Previously, when Guerlain was still Guerlain, the boss and head of the dynasty nearly drove the cart into the wall, as he created good but unsellable fragrances (e.g., Mahora, which actually has a lot in common with 190 years) and somehow lost touch, as the clientele preferred new directions (Calvin Klein says hello!) that he could not successfully pursue (Secret Intention....).
Thierry had already created some groundbreaking fragrances when he set out to bring Guerlain back to the forefront, and LVMH had the funds to make it happen.
CUT.
Recently, what signifies a new world order for Guerlain took place: a change in the French leadership. And once again, a major cleanup among the fragrances began. This is not the topic here, but it should explain why 190 Absolu (the refinement of 190 Ans) is just right to represent “Guerlain 190 years.”
It reflects the current status of French perfumery and says with all its fragrance components: “Guerlain”!
The top note, which is less sweet than the EdP, smells fresh and of orange peels and a bit almondy. Orange is a big trend at Guerlain, and not just there.
Honey and everything else that the hive produces is the trademark of Guerlain, and the flower honey that comes into play here smells exceptionally natural and high-quality.
Almond and Ylang carry the fragrance and are at the same time something like the “new Guerlinade,” meaning they can be found in numerous current fragrances, and Thierry is a big fan of them, as well as of benzoin. He practically doesn’t go to the lab without it. Thierry = Benzoin. Everything is very finely balanced.
The iconic bottle is a no-brainer; I just find the bee on the neck a bit forced, but not well executed. But that is the artistic ambition, with which I have not quite been in sync with Guerlain in recent years. (JonOne! lol)
All in all: 190 Ans Absolu is the logical consequence and exactly the fragrance that defines Guerlain “today.”
It is 100 %.
Love it or hate it.
If Guerlain wants to celebrate its 190th anniversary with only 761 invited guests - that's fine by me. If this kind of limited event perfumery continues, I couldn't care less. However, I certainly won't be part of the loyal clientele that buys their 893rd little black dress. For me, Guerlain is mostly done. It's sad, but that's how it is. And Thierry himself is not to blame; he's just doing his job.
At least a 9 for you. There was a time when it was time for Guerlain to launch a new fragrance after six or seven years. Now, seven months is already too long. I can't keep up anymore...
The modernization of the house is essential. In the past, a company existed for an average of 60 years; today it's 18. The Guerlains claimed to have created fragrances for women they admired, celebrating femininity. If that is still the common thread, just "in modern," Guerlain has a long reason to exist. The L'Art line is, for example, sensational. The fact that Monsieur Wasser doesn't bring out a wild card every year doesn't bother me. Thanks for the informative comment!
Your super interesting comment just completely captivated me with its info about Guerlain, the perfumer, and the scent! And that’s impressive, considering I’m not really that interested in the fragrance ;). Awesome, thanks!
Chanelle, I keep telling myself to put the Guerlain topic to rest, because you're absolutely right. And Guerlain, or rather LVMH, is doing everything right. But I still feel that it hurts... ;)
Turandot, I understand your way of thinking, but unfortunately... money rules the world. The market is saturated, old classics are becoming fewer with their fans, but in a time when influencers can make or break fragrances, Guerlain has done everything right from their perspective.
I'm going to take in both your great comment and Turandot's response. 190 years is quite an achievement, but the charm that Guerlain used to have seems to have faded quite a bit. The scent must be very nice; orange blossom always catches my attention, but the difficulty in accessing it means it won't be making it onto my wishlist.
I probably have a misunderstanding, but for a fragrance that's supposed to celebrate 190 years of Guerlain, I don't want Guerlain "today." That’s probably why the scent feels like it’s celebrating Thierry Wasser rather than Guerlain, as it often does lately. I don’t love it, but I don’t hate it either. I’m indifferent to it, and that’s just sad for a Guerlain fragrance in my opinion. But your comment is top-notch!
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