Derby Guerlain 2005

This fragrance starts with such sustainable opulence that I was initially filled with slight doubts: where exactly should it be worn? I don’t find myself at Ascot or socializing on the yachts of this world all that often. Derby complements its slightly sweet, soapy-powdery elegance in the top note excellently with other insignia of power like expensive watches, cufflinks, and club badges. I thought to myself that anyone wearing this fragrance should already have something to show for in life; stepping out of a mid-range car with Derby would definitely be out of place.

However, after a good quarter of an hour, a remarkable transformation occurs: Derby increasingly gains sharpness, and this only benefits the fragrance. A powerful, almost piercing leather scent takes over, a greenish, slightly smoky bitterness joins in, and I believe I can also perceive the scent of tobacco leaves. Overall, the fragrance becomes significantly more relaxed. One almost feels as if the gentlemen on the yacht have taken off their blazers and made themselves comfortable in tweed jackets with cigars and whiskey. I find the heart note universally appealing, even thrilling.

The dry down is characterized by patchouli and woody notes. The sweetness is stretched but is repeatedly interrupted by sharp accents that remind me faintly of ammonium chloride. This may sound off-putting, but it is quite pleasant and gives the fragrance an edge.

In its composition - aside from the opening - Derby reminds me of Polo by Ralph Lauren. The latter suits me personally better; the spiciness seems more balanced and rounded. Nevertheless, Derby is a very well-crafted fragrance with a strong personality, it undergoes exciting transformations, and is distinguished by high sillage and longevity.