Jicky (Eau de Toilette) by Guerlain

Jicky 1889 Eau de Toilette

April22Bee
06/17/2021 - 01:30 PM
40
Top Review
8Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage 8Bottle

Surprisingly Different and Demanding

"Jicky"... Who are you, I thought to myself when I was able to participate in a Guerlain masterclass last year.

The fragrance from 1889, which has been continuously produced since then, divides opinions and, in my view, is more suited for the most hardcore Guerlain fans. "Jicky" was marketed as the world's first "modern perfume," combining complex aromas that captivated both women and men alike.
In the Guerlain masterclass training, I learned that for the first time in the world of perfumes, a synthetic molecule-namely the so-called "vanillin"-was used.

The fragrance was immediately embraced by men, while women were initially more surprised before they could also become enthusiastic about the scent. However, that took a while.
I believe I belong to the circle of ladies from 1889, as Jicky also seems like a challenging candidate to me... but I still like it because it is refreshingly different.

JICKY, as promising as the name is, has a story behind the fragrance, namely that Aimé Guerlain, or so the story goes, was inspired by a hopeless love from his student days. The name is owed to the lady who remained in Aimé's memory. Coincidentally, Jicky was also the name of his nephew Jaques, who was affectionately called that.

Jicky is a fragrance of contrasts, which I find rather unpleasant in the first half hour. I don't really smell the citrus top notes of bergamot, mandarin, lemon, and rosemary at all, at least not at the beginning... because the scent builds up for me in reverse order. It starts with the base and ends with the top note... very strange for me and at the same time fascinating. The heart note is very spicy, but it doesn't unfold much on me due to the strong base. Opulent are leather, balsamic notes, incense, and civet.

After three-quarters of an hour, the citrusy, warm, vanillic accord pushes forward, and the fragrance becomes rounder and more harmonious.
The scent is truly rich in contrasts. Due to the different components, the fragrance unfolds differently on everyone; at least I could observe this because I sprayed it on various people.
It is fascinating how seemingly so different and contradictory notes can unite into one fragrance. Aimé Guerlain's mysterious love must have been a versatile woman, as the scent is truly diverse: sensual, animalistic, sweet, fresh, and a bit mysterious and magical.

Sillage and projection are good. I would describe the longevity as above average.
So hats off to over 100 years of perfume history. A test is definitely worthwhile.

Thank you for reading.
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27 Comments
TradescantiaTradescantia 4 years ago
I haven't tested that one yet.
That will change.
But I also intentionally save some tests for later. However, the comment makes me want to try it and is beautifully written.
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SetaSeta 4 years ago
Honest and fair comment! I also find some of the old Guerlain classics challenging. I usually don't get along with animalic notes anyway.
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GuerlinchenGuerlinchen 4 years ago
Yes, I feel the same way about this masterpiece... my (now ex-boyfriend, but that has nothing to do with the scent ;-) ) smelled really good in it. I find it a bit too masculine/spicy for my taste, but I will definitely do more testing. The main thing is, I have this piece of history in my collection.
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MonsieurTestMonsieurTest 4 years ago
I find your description of the fragrance development, almost from the base to the top notes, quite stimulating, and I also took a long time to appreciate this classic...
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R3mt9R3mt9 4 years ago
Very fine review. Jicky never fails to amaze me.
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PonticusPonticus 4 years ago
Despite your clear and unmistakable little reservations about the perfume Jicky, your fine review with its understandable scent description is a lovely, personal, and honest tribute to this classic. I really enjoyed it!
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DelightfulDelightful 4 years ago
Great how you describe the story of the fragrance, I really enjoyed reading it. :D
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Brelles530Brelles530 4 years ago
Old but good. A particularly beautiful Guerlain.
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FoxearFoxear 4 years ago
1
Thanks for sharing your knowledge from the masterclass! The scent is definitely complex and magically intertwined - actually contradictory. But that's thanks to the Guerlain magic, which makes it possible (I only know the EdP).
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TofuwachtelTofuwachtel 4 years ago
1
The facets of Jicky always fascinate me. I always have a bottle of it on hand. - I would have loved to be part of that course. It must have been great. - Your description really hits the nail on the head for me. Awesome!
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DibellaDibella 4 years ago
1
Very interesting to read. I was completely captivated and I'm really curious now!
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LicoriceLicorice 4 years ago
Wonderful, detailed, and insightful review. Wow, it must have been a great course! I'm not familiar with the scent yet.
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UnchanedUnchaned 4 years ago
Wonderful and honestly described. I'm torn about Jicky... I found the EdT the most wearable, but the EdP is even more impressive.
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FloydFloyd 4 years ago
1
Fantastic, informative, and light-hearted review. I really enjoyed reading it!
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NuiWhakakoreNuiWhakakore 4 years ago
1
I unfortunately still don't know it, but I definitely need to change that after your review!
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SalvaSalva 4 years ago
A really great review of a scent that is, as you say, unique. And I’m kind of jealous that you got to participate in that training. I would love to do something like that, especially with my favorite house, Guerlain...
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SchalkerinSchalkerin 4 years ago
1
One of the most beautiful Guerlains. Smelled it many years ago, fell in love, bought it, and have already gone through a few bottles.
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BastianBastian 4 years ago
1
I thought the scent was really great.....
Your review too..
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UntermWertUntermWert 4 years ago
1
Thank you for the clear and informative description. I’ll be testing it soon and have been very curious about it for a while. Let’s see which notes come through for me.
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CravacheCravache 4 years ago
1
A great scent aura. If I can be more specific, I think the EdP is just right :) Or Mouchoir de Monsieur, an olfactory rascal.
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SchatzSucherSchatzSucher 4 years ago
1
Jicky is one of the few Guerlains that I just can't get along with. I acknowledge that the scent is excellent, but it becomes too barn-like for me over time. I haven't tried the EdT, but my judgment would probably be similar.
Your comment, however, is also excellent.
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PollitaPollita 4 years ago
I wouldn't want to wear it myself right now, but I can definitely imagine Jicky on a gentleman.
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ExUserExUser 4 years ago
I've been here for 4 years now and have really tested a ton of fragrances. But somehow Jicky has always slipped by me. I really need to try it. Great comment, really enjoyed reading it.
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SiriSiri 4 years ago
Dear B., you described the scent very vividly. However, I’d rather not try it ;)
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JonasP1JonasP1 4 years ago
1
Great comment! I only know the EdP, but I really like it a lot too :-)
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ExUserExUser 4 years ago
I still haven't properly tested Jicky after over 3 years on Parfumo, but I do have the related Mouchoir de Monsieur in my collection. I find it fascinating how you can tell just from the scent that these fragrances are from a different era. But that's also part of the appeal-wearing them in today's world.
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Lenka85Lenka85 4 years ago
I also find Jicky fascinating and still absolutely wearable after all these years. I don't feel that way about all "oldies," so hats off to it from me as well.
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