L'Homme Idéal Guerlain 2016 Eau de Parfum

As a fragrance novice on a voyage of discovery into the mostly unknown realms of spicy-sweet autumn and winter fragrances, I have recently been making 1-2 stops a week at the turquoise shop to scent my wrists out of pure curiosity. Anything only halfway interesting is first of all bought as bottling in the souk (thanks, thanks to all of you for this great opportunity!) and tested for a few days. Among them Guerlains L'Homme Idéal Extrême. When I first became aware of this brand or fragrance series, I noticed the EdP version in the Parfumo-Top-100 (men's fragrances). I did not know it yet. But because of the good ratings and promising reviews (I read about a high-quality cherry note and a mass-suited designer scent but in a noble and niche character) I simply ordered a sample
FLAKON
Just got a bottle from the souk. Therefore no comment and no rating for the bottle.

DURABILITY & SILLAGE
In everyday life I get by with three or four sprayers for a good 7 hours. On cosy days the fragrance lasts up to 10 hours. In the first 45-60 minutes after spraying, the scent projects very strongly on my skin, almost filling the room. But then it withdraws very quickly into the close range and after 2 to 3 hours it can only be perceived almost skin-tight.

STEAM or STEAM RUN
L'Homme Idéal EdP opens sparkling and lively with creamy bergamot, dry-coumarin notes and fruity powdery-sugary sweetness. Herbaceous-spicy notes and something slightly pungent, which I would most likely define as lavender (reminds me a bit of dried tarragon?). In the background, a subtle vanilla warmth comes through. I find it rather difficult to isolate individual notes or ingredients with this fragrance. The characteristic almond is a bit hidden but still unmistakably marzipan-like. After a short time I notice bitter almond oil or benzaldehyde (also known as cherry flavour) - besides almonds and (powdered) sugar a typical ingredient for marzipan. To round off the taste, marzipan is often mixed with a little rose water. And so it is only logical that after 15-20 minutes a fruity-honey rose note rises to my nose, making the previously rather dry fragrance beautifully full-bodied and round. At the latest now it goes unmistakably into squeaky-sweet gourmand terrain. I smell mainly juicy and powdery-sweet marzipan, but I can't help thinking of red wine gum (somewhere between English wine gum and these Haribo cherries). In the next 1-2 hours, more prominent vanilla and a little incense gradually steer the fragrance in a different direction. Namely in that of a sweet-smoky-scratchy tobacco or leather accord. The marzipan and cherry-like notes weaken, but remain present. There are also dry-coumarin, herbaceous-spicy or slightly tart nuances which I cannot classify with any certainty. A connection to vanilla bean or tonka bean seems obvious to me, but I cannot explain it further. Further associations are benzoin, balsam, coumarin/ hay, dried herbs, camphor, lavender. Because of this slightly "greenish" touch, I am thinking more of pipe tobacco than leather. But this scratchiness is gradually disappearing, while sandalwood and vanilla round off the warm and spicy scent
APPLICATION
I would classify L'Homme Idéal edp as a spicy fruity-sweet day and evening fragrance for the cooler months. Suitable both for leisure and for a more informal working environment. For all its gourmand playfulness, I find it altogether very mature, so that I see it more on people over 30 and in at least "casual-chic" wardrobe than on people in their mid-twenties with hoodies and running shoes. But everyone as he thinks.

CONCLUSION
I don't know the scent DNA of L'Homme Idéal EdP from any other perfume. Whether this alone justifies a predicate like "niche quality", I don't know. At least this scent is interesting. That's why it has potential to attract attention - through its individual character, not through volume. Whether it then not only attracts attention but also attracts attention is of course another question.

I'm torn. I really like the rich marzipan chord with a honey cherry rose touch. As well as the spicy-soft end of the fragrance. In between, however, the fragrance is often a bit too restless for me. The herbaceous-arsh notes and the scratchy incense (dis-)destroy the otherwise successful gourmand overall picture, instead of fitting in. I also find the occasional association with sticky artificial Haribo cherries rather unpleasant. Concerning these negative points it should be said that they are mainly noticeable from close up when I virtually flatten my nose on the scent. In the silage of the fragrance they are less important. Despite their seductive-sweet appeal, I don't like to bite into Guerlain's marzipan-cherry-almond in the end.