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Habit Rouge precursor with a gray nuance slightly cacophonous
Guerlain's Mouchoir de Monsieur comes from the time shortly after the turn of the 20th century and strikes me as the precursor to the great Habit Rouge EdT from the 60s.
The opening features a muted citrus note. Over time, the fragrance develops into a powdery-animalic scent. However, this is also very subdued. One could say that the idea for Habit Rouge was already realized in Mouchoir, just not expressed with strength. However, the difference between handkerchief (Mouchoir) and tailcoat (Habit) is quite pronounced. In Habit Rouge, the opening is intense with bitter orange, while in Mouchoir, the bergamot (?) is only subtly perceptible. The animalic-powdery aspect of the heart note is only dimly quiet here, whereas there it is virulently agitated.
I do not like the subdued nature of Mouchoir. I much prefer the loud expressiveness of Habit Rouge. With Mouchoir, one always has to go inward slightly to even become aware of its characteristics. A perfume should radiate and draw attention to itself. Being found by the seeker is not enough for a perfume. It may also be the sensory overload of our time that demands strong signals. But that is just how it is.
Furthermore, I have the impression of a certain cacophony from the very beginning with Mouchoir. The components do not seem to fit together properly. This flaw persists into the heart note. This may be due to the fact that tastes have changed somewhat over 120 years. But particularly the heart note I would describe as gray. That is the association that the animalic, subdued, somewhat disharmonious evokes. When I close my eyes, I see a horse stable with Habit, while with Mouchoir, I see a wooden shed in a garden.
All in all, I advise against purchasing it. Anyone looking for a classic, complex, expressive powdery-animalic fragrance of French perfumery should reach for Habit Rouge. In it, what is only present in idea in Mouchoir de Monsieur has found perfection. Time has passed over the Mouchoir. Guerlain should let it rest in peace.
The opening features a muted citrus note. Over time, the fragrance develops into a powdery-animalic scent. However, this is also very subdued. One could say that the idea for Habit Rouge was already realized in Mouchoir, just not expressed with strength. However, the difference between handkerchief (Mouchoir) and tailcoat (Habit) is quite pronounced. In Habit Rouge, the opening is intense with bitter orange, while in Mouchoir, the bergamot (?) is only subtly perceptible. The animalic-powdery aspect of the heart note is only dimly quiet here, whereas there it is virulently agitated.
I do not like the subdued nature of Mouchoir. I much prefer the loud expressiveness of Habit Rouge. With Mouchoir, one always has to go inward slightly to even become aware of its characteristics. A perfume should radiate and draw attention to itself. Being found by the seeker is not enough for a perfume. It may also be the sensory overload of our time that demands strong signals. But that is just how it is.
Furthermore, I have the impression of a certain cacophony from the very beginning with Mouchoir. The components do not seem to fit together properly. This flaw persists into the heart note. This may be due to the fact that tastes have changed somewhat over 120 years. But particularly the heart note I would describe as gray. That is the association that the animalic, subdued, somewhat disharmonious evokes. When I close my eyes, I see a horse stable with Habit, while with Mouchoir, I see a wooden shed in a garden.
All in all, I advise against purchasing it. Anyone looking for a classic, complex, expressive powdery-animalic fragrance of French perfumery should reach for Habit Rouge. In it, what is only present in idea in Mouchoir de Monsieur has found perfection. Time has passed over the Mouchoir. Guerlain should let it rest in peace.
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5 Comments
For me, the allure remains to give Mouchoir a chance, at least as a sample. HR always belongs in my collection.
馃弳
Additionally, this fragrance comes from a time when it wasn't considered gentlemanly to overpower your companion with scent. That's why you perceive the weak projection and sillage.