Sous le Vent 1933 Eau de Toilette

Larimar
23.01.2012 - 02:48 AM
5
Very helpful Review
10
Bottle
2.5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
9
Scent

How I came to love Sous le Vent...

Why do I love Sous le Vent when I can't do most (vintage) green chyprés?
In a one-liner I would describe Sous le Vent as a powdery aromatic chypré.

The opening accord of Sous le Vent consisting of green notes (galbanum, citrus) and herbs, mostly tarragon to my perception, creates a lime-like accord, which is juicy, zesty like the lime in tropical longdrinks/cocktails. The aromatic component is persistent and gets slightly less citric as the powdery woods come in. Next in its development is the revelation of a spot-on perfect chypré accord. By this time Sous le Vent is a skin scent (most chyprés are) that lingers on for a very long time. Very deep in the base is a slightly animalic/indolic component hidden that blooms more in summer I suppose.
Everything is gorgeously balanced in Sous le Vent, the refreshing, reviving aromatic citric opening accord (after all, according to history this was meant to refresh Josephine Baker after her legendary performances), the powdery woods and notes of undergrowth (official notes list) and last but not least a perfect chypré accord to my nose with a naughty hint well hidden underneath.
I have read many different perfume associations for Sous le Vent. What came first to my mind is the green note in the heart that clearly reminded me of the green in the current Vol de Nuit Extrait. Diaghilev by Roja Dove (another superb contemporary chypré) made an appearance when the woody facet and overall tone was most prominent. Eau de Guerlain and its citric opening blast is not far either.
One last word about the concentration - I think the airy character, like a breeze, the refreshing quality is retained best in the EdT concentration, however much I like to wear extraits in general.
Sous le Vent is as per January 2012 still part of Guerlain's product range and not yet discontinued. However, I am not hopeful for this interesting and sophisticated composition for the future. I also do not expect that the Guerlain 'Il etait une fois' collection (of which Sous le Vent is a part) will live on...
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