Vetiver pour Elle Guerlain 2004

Guerlain's - so much can be anticipated via the following designation - Vetiver-Pretiose opens with a strong floral note. Lily of the valley, yet grounded by the main character in the truest sense of the word. The scent is herbaceous, surprisingly herbaceous, I think. The bergamot takes on a rather potato-like crumbly role. After 15 minutes, the fragrance even offers quite earthy-musty aspects. I am not surprised that this ladies' vetiver may not have been particularly well received by some Guerlain customers and production was discontinued, despite the heroic (see below!) efforts of my predecessor.

But in contrast to Adolfo Dominguez, who - one might take it almost literally - goes all out with his vetiver, a Guerlain always remains on this side of a certain boundary. The plants provide an airy, distant bitterness in the scent that reminds me of the habitus (not in the sense of a fragrance twin!) of Musc Bleu by Il Profvmo. Nutmeg contributes to this impression. Expanding my nostrils; I eagerly inhale the tightly woven mixture again and again. And I am very taken with it.

Feminine? My previous remarks should have anticipated my opinion on this. I find it by no means feminine. On the contrary, it should appeal equally to gentlemen, and its demise is doubly regrettable.

Gerdi, the donor of my sample (thank you very much for that!) suggested comparing the present candidate with Kurkdjian's vetiver made for Elie Saab. Third and final preview: I see hardly any stylistic touchpoints. The equally noticeable yet unhelpful observation that both are unisex fragrances with vetiver at the center can confidently be regarded as a platitude and is therefore better omitted. Let’s strike the last sentence.

To put it succinctly, I would delineate the fragrances as follows: Mr. Kurkdjian primarily pairs his vetiver with grapefruit, creating an atmosphere of refined-charming freshness, while Guerlain, with its earthy-floral blend, remains more reserved in terms of elegance - but oh my - and also in terms of sillage - and longevity.

After just two hours, Vetiver pour Elle is very close to the skin, and there is little development taking place. It simply becomes overall milder, and the bitter component completely retreats to the skin. There, it gradually fades in the sixth and seventh hour towards a dusty note. During the eighth hour, (perhaps) a hint of fixative amber and (certainly) a base of vanilla appear as a final farewell before the fragrance then completely disappears.

Conclusion: It’s a pity that this vetiver is so quickly so reserved and moreover runs out of steam in every respect after three-quarters of a workday. Otherwise, it certainly does not have to hide behind the variant intended for men. Vetiver enthusiasts are advised to occasionally keep an eye out for remnants.