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Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

Eau de Pamplemousse Rose 2009

Ronin
08/08/2021 - 12:29 PM
Top Review
8.5Scent 6Longevity 6Sillage 9Bottle 9Pricing

Juice instead of Power

Have you ever smelled it? Yes and no…

Many perfumers develop their ideas further. Once realized, they become a starting point and source of inspiration for other perfumes. This applies to ideas that can offer enticing new elements with a different emphasis. Jean-Claude Ellena works this way too. The starting point of "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose" is unmistakably the "Terre d'Hermès," which was released three years earlier, with its grapefruit opening.
Implementing grapefruit is not easy in perfumery: The characteristic scent of the natural fruit is largely due to tiny amounts of a sulfur-containing compound that is unstable in formulations. Therefore, perfumes with natural grapefruit peel oil often develop unpleasant off-notes resembling sweat and mustiness after a short storage period (this seems to be the case with "Citrus Paradisi" by Czech & Speake). To achieve a manageable, stable grapefruit impression, it must be "reconstructed" accordingly. Jean-Claude Ellena solved this challenge in "Terre d'Hermès" by combining orange oil with the rhubarb fragrance compound Rhubofix. The result, despite the simple formula, is a very naturalistic grapefruit scent. This grapefruit magic trick found many imitators, especially since "Terre d'Hermès" became a bestseller, and grapefruit as a top note became a trend.
Ellena himself likely thought that from here, the path to a citrus-fresh cologne would be an easy one. And so it was: almost the same components, shifted in proportions, define both fragrances. For "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose," the top note is emphasized, and the cedar-vetiver base is toned down. Additionally, the Iso-E-Super concentration was massively reduced. This has two effects: on one hand, expansive sillage and long-lastingness do not suit a cologne that should be refreshed with a few spritzes; on the other hand, Iso-E-Super diminishes juiciness. "Terre d'Hermès" is meant to reflect dryness: dust, sand, flint, ochre-colored, warm earth. That’s why so much Iso-E-Super was added that the grapefruit top note was strangely distorted: dry, but not like shriveled fruits, instead remaining herb-fresh. For "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose," however, the fruit is allowed and should be plump and juicy. Freshly cut grapefruit, and when you take a hearty bite, the juice drips from the corners of your mouth. Refreshing, cheerful, devoid of any serious strictness.
The restrained floral heart of "Terre d'Hermès" around the sharp, slender rose geranium was transformed for "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose" - presumably through the addition of damask and rose oxide - into a soft, full rose. This supports the juicy overall impression. But even in this fragrance, the heart is just strong enough to allow the wordplay "rose" = pink or rose. The cedar-vetiver base known from the original is reasonably intact, but very, very subdued. Hermès has earned a reputation with its colognes for achieving the impossible - offering colognes that can be spritzed on for a refreshing boost without gasping for air, while also exhibiting profound longevity. This is achieved by composing them in such a way that they quickly retreat close to the skin but maintain a constant presence there. "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose" falls into this category only to a limited extent: compared to its successors, the longevity is significantly reduced. This is not a bad thing and is not impractical for summer in sunny regions. However, for those who still want to increase longevity, the following can be tried: position the bottle of "Terre d'Hermès" EdT over the back of the hand so that only half a spray lands on the skin. Spread this generously and layer with about 6 sprays of "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose." In this ratio, the juicy character remains intact, longevity is increased, and the sillage is not overpowering. So, it’s basically a work- and public transport-compatible "Terre d'Hermès."

Without this booster, "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose" ends abruptly. Just like this comment.
Updated on 08/09/2021
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15 Comments
KopfingKopfing 3 years ago
1
Wow, what an amazing analysis and review. I rarely come across something like this, thank you for that :)
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RoninRonin 3 years ago
2
Thanks for the kind replies! Just a quick follow-up: after my comment, I had a pleasant private message exchange about whether the longevity is really as short as I described. I wanted to get to the bottom of it, so I had to conduct a field test. I tested "Eau de Pamplemousse Rose" in the same way twice: the night before, I didn't wear any fragrance to ensure my nose was somewhat clear the next day. Then I used just two sprays of the grapefruit (which actually tempts you to spray more). Lo and behold: yes, the cologne gets close to the skin quickly, but it lasts a solid 5-6 hours. The characteristic base was still clearly recognizable afterward. So I have to partially correct myself.
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Rotti75Rotti75 3 years ago
1
Super informative comment with a lot of expertise. Great!!!
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TerraTerra 3 years ago
1
I love the Eau de Pamplemousse Rose! I'm getting a leftover bottle soon and I'm really looking forward to it. For me, it's a more youthful, less serious Terre d'Hermès with an even nicer opening. However, the longevity could definitely be better. I still have a mini Terre d'Hermès here and I'll try layering it :).
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KcacoKcaco 4 years ago
1
A great review, especially regarding ISO E Super. Very insightful. I really hate that stuff, but I often notice it too late. And I definitely need to test the Pamplemousse Rose again.
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SetaSeta 4 years ago
2
With 'Terre d'Hermes' and 'Un Jardin sur le Nil', I found the Iso-E--Super way too dominant - all I could smell was something sharp and prickly! So this one is worth a try, especially since I like citrus-rose combinations.
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RoninRonin 4 years ago
@Mollymops: I’ve disabled the trophy display option. I find it smoother for me to direct the activities towards helpful/not helpful and especially responses. Seems to be working ;-)
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RoninRonin 4 years ago
Thanks to all of you for the positive feedback! @Schatzsucher: yes, the Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune has a bit of that too, although the grapefruit note partly doesn't come from grapefruit oil. And: no comparison to Citrus Paradisi.
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CharlAmbreCharlAmbre 4 years ago
Great review, you really captured both scents well! I'm cheering for you on the closing line :-D
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M3000M3000 4 years ago
1
Thanks for this enlightening overview - with a funny ending!
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FräuleinFräulein 4 years ago
1
Thank you for the informative minutes! I find scents with grapefruit very refreshing.
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RivegaucheRivegauche 4 years ago
2
Well written, enjoyed the grapefruit :-)
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MollymopsMollymops 4 years ago
2
A great analysis, I would have loved to leave you a trophy. Unfortunately, it doesn't show up for me?
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SchatzSucherSchatzSucher 4 years ago
1
Sweaty grapefruit has come across my path a few times. For example, in Guerlain's AA Pamplelune. I prefer it without the sweat notes. And I would actually love a Terre d'Hermès that doesn't smell so much like Terre d'Hermès. I'll keep the scent in mind and thanks for your very insightful comment.
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PinkdawnPinkdawn 4 years ago
2
Learned something new again. I never thought it could be a pink grapefruit. Until now. The scent isn't long-lasting, but it's fresh and citrusy. It's a bit tart, but still cheerful. I like it.
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