It's almost as if Christine Nagel is hell bent on breaking with Hermès traditions; this one feels rather cold, metallic, cerebral. Yes, H24 is original; daring even, given the Ellena legacy. But perhaps this is more of a perfumer's perfume, like there are writer's writers.
Obviously, the quality of ingredients and blending is there. Still, this is rather a far cry from the various Merveilles, and even more so from the subtle and poetic Jardins. Actually, one look at the unattractive bottle shape, and you just know this will be a departure from the soothing songs of scent that Hermès is known for. To be blunt: H24, to me, smells like an upmarket men's shower gel. Poor projection, sillage and longevity don't really help either. Oh well, perhaps it'll grow on me. Let's wait until spring and find out. For now, it is somewhat of an all-too-modern oddity that holds little attraction for me.
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* H24 revisited: spring 2022
Well, well. As it turns out, the Nagel composition of H24 is not entirely devoid of Ellena's touch after all. Far more noticeable now than in winter is the green component, for example. During the first hour, hour-and-a-half or so, there's not only the clary sage from the pyramid that's very prominent and refreshing, but also - to my nose anyway - the presence of the freshest tomato plant stems, even if they are not listed. A big plus. In this milder, in-between weather the fragrance on the whole seems to be less cold and aloof, too.
Sillage, alas, remains astonishingly poor for a Hermès perfume. Then again, even a generous few sprays of Un Jardin Après La Mousson tend to be hardly more than a skin scent on me, while vanishing into nowhere at lightning pace. Curiously enough, this is not the case with Un Jardin Sur Le Nil. Not a bit less strange is the fact that H24's longevity has significantly improved.
Even though its positive seasonal twists and turns do not warrant a full bottle purchase for me, I now find H24 to be actually wearable - in springtime. There's a fair chance it will perform even better in summer, with that odd aloofness probably turning into something pleasantly cooling.
I must say I'm glad to have revisited the fragrance. For once the old saying 'You never get a second chance for a first impression' does not hold true. Good for H24 (despite the bottle it comes in).
