DrB1414
10/28/2023 - 12:21 PM
4
Helpful Review
9
Scent

Unique take on the Leather genre

I believe Marquis de Sade from Histoires de Parfums can be considered a modern classic in the leather genre. I'd guess the most appreciated from the house among enthusiasts who know their perfumes. Even though it has been tamed and polished since its original release, dressed up to appeal more to the current tastes by pumping in more vanilla and taking out some of the smoky birchwood, ironing the creases of the leather, I believe it remains still an amazing perfume worth checking out.
If you are going to put your perfume into an amazing flacon, you better do it justice. And justice has been done. I think the original flacons Histoires de Parfums had back in the day are some of the most beautiful and original I have come across. The perfume itself matches, offering a complete experience. Overall, it is a smoky leather fragrance, yet offers way beyond that. You get lots of immortelle, a beautiful davana note in the opening, plenty of patchouli and cistus in the base, and even some tobacco. It is quite harsh, especially for the first few hours, a loud and butch fragrance that might polarize your surroundings and sometimes the wearer. In the opening, you get a short-lived burst of spices, mainly coriander, and a sharp, boozy accord from the davana and artemisia interplay. Shortly after, the leather-smoky birchwood pair kicks in. Picture yourself an old, rugged leather garment infused with birchwood smoke over which someone spilled a generous amount of wine. Let it sit like that for a few centuries, and you get the idea. Quite harsh. It starts to mellow down, however, and the immortelle comes into the picture together with the patchouli. They provide a beautiful herbaceous touch and sweetness to the composition. In the base, it becomes resinous from the cistus and the styrax, blending with the smoky leather, the immortelle-patchouli combo, and sprinkled with some woods and faint tobacco. It smooths out the more it lingers on the skin, developing into an intoxicating woody-leather scent with alluring sillage.
One of the most unique takes on the leather genre, one of the most complex, and well put together. Relevant, even today.

IG:@memory.of.scents
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