Jean Loup Sieff was one of the great fashion photographers from the mid-1950s onwards. He worked for major fashion magazines like Vogue and Harpers Bazaar. He was also known for his skillful photo retouching.
One of his most famous shots is the nude photo of Yves Saint Laurent, which was also used as an advertising campaign for the brand's first men's fragrance and caused quite a scandal.
When exactly Jean Loup Sieff's fragrances hit the market is probably not documented, but I remember that my best friend was the first in our group to wear the scent SanjaSan in 1982. It was quite similar to the great and then outrageously expensive Opium, but cost only a fraction of the classic from YSL. Thus, SanjaSan was somewhat like the Opium for the (common) people.
Of course, when directly comparing the two fragrances, despite all their similarities, differences can also be discerned.
SanjaSan is overall a bit simpler and has a somewhat fresher opening. The floral heart is also a bit less lush, and the base has a bit more musk, less resin, and no incense. The spices are also somewhat less full-bodied than in the great original.
Longevity and sillage can keep up with Opium.
What the name might signify is pure speculation on my part.
In the late 70s, self-discovery and various cults were a big topic. Suddenly, you saw people dressed in orange, calling themselves Sanjasins and living according to the teachings of a Mr. Bhagwan. There were also recurring reports about scandals involving this cult. Whether the name SanjaSan is in any way derived from that trend remains pure conjecture.
It would also be interesting to test the other fragrances from the Jean Loup Sieff brand. I can vaguely remember Disparu.
But it seems that there is not much left to find.
By the way, Mr. Sieff's daughter has followed in his footsteps in two ways. On one hand, she is a photographer like him, and on the other, she also has her own fragrance on the market.
My thanks to the lovely Mursilka, who passed on the 50ml bottle to me.
Great comment, thanks for the information, @Ergoproxy. The fragrance is new to me, and I feel the same way you do: lighter than Opium, but by no means inferior.
Really enjoyed reading this, and thanks for all the information here!
A simpler, fresher, less opulent scent wouldn’t bother me. The Opium bomb has always been way too overpowering for me *gasp*
Oh, that sounds great! The original Opium has always been too heavy for me - this scent seems like a wearable alternative for me - I'll definitely give it a sniff.
Thanks for the information!
Rendez-vous! Sonia Sieff rings a bell.
And of course, the nude photo of Yves too. :-)
In the meantime, I can appreciate Opium as well.
Congrats on the fragrance!
very interesting - the YSL photo is indeed an icon, good to know who created it, and an Opium interpretation from those years must be very beautiful :)
I remember Jean Loup Sieff as a photographer back then. His fragrances, however, never caught my interest. I think they weren't really marketed much either. A small department store in my town offered them.
He also photographed more than just fashion. Some great portraits and nudes, but also landscapes. I had SanjaSan back then, also Disparu. I never tested the other fragrances.
Congratulations on the bottle and thanks for the great description! What a lovely trip down memory lane! I haven't tried this one yet; I would be sad if it has less resin and no incense, but it still sounds good.
I'm not surprised you like it 😉 Both the scent and the brand are completely unknown to me. Interesting detail about the YSL photos. Must have been a good time.
Well described!
A simpler, fresher, less opulent scent wouldn’t bother me. The Opium bomb has always been way too overpowering for me *gasp*
Rendez-vous! Sonia Sieff rings a bell.
And of course, the nude photo of Yves too. :-)
In the meantime, I can appreciate Opium as well.
Congrats on the fragrance!