Fleuri's blog prompted me yesterday to conduct a parallel test of the current EdP with a vintage EdT, of which a lovely Parfumo kindly sent me a sample. Thank you for that.
I would like to say something different, but: Joy is rightly being discontinued. At least the shadow that remains of this fragrance with a great past.
The old Eau de Toilette delights with a bouquet where the duo of rose and jasmine predominates. Lily of the valley stays discreetly in the background; I can't perceive the other flowers in the pyramid individually. This wonderful floral scent is accompanied by soft citrus notes and gentle aldehydes. A hint of civet also wafts softly over, which for me does not evoke any urinous associations. I read somewhere that it smells like "dirty soap." I think that captures it. Civet, in much lower dosage than in Jicky, brings a bit of naughtiness to this wonderfully soft soap. I find Poliboy furniture polish a bit crude. But I can't express better how the floral blend merges into a breathtakingly beautiful, slightly waxy scent with a distinct vintage character. How I long for a few more drops of this EdT, not to mention higher concentrations.
The current Eau de Parfum on the other wrist has only superficial similarities: it is also a soapy floral perfume.
But I primarily smell lily of the valley. More lily of the valley than jasmine. In my opinion, there was an attempt here to compensate for the civet impression with lily of the valley. Synthetic civet might have been better, but I'm not a perfumer and have no idea. In any case, the modern scent also stinks, but I am sure: that comes from the lily of the valley.
And yes: The rose is gone. The softness too. Instead, there is more of a harsh soap impression without polish and without minimal residual sweetness. Lacking refinement.
Oh, and the longevity of the vintage EdT is also better than that of the current EdP. All prejudices confirmed.
Now, my disappointment may also stem from the fact that I have problems with lily of the valley anyway. Lily of the valley lovers may find charming facets in the new scent that is now being discontinued. In any case, I will not hoard fragrances in the current version.
Instead, I hope that Dior will eventually release a "Joy. Eau de Toilette Originale." They have done it with Miss Dior as well. It would be good if they don't test our patience until 2035.
Absolutely right! I just received the latest version. Since Joy is the prototype of a fragrant perfume and I probably won't be willing to spend around 1,000 euros for the extrait, I'll keep it as an archetype and recreate it myself. I don't understand why LVMH can't manage that. Guerlain did it with Mitsouko after all.
... I think it’s not the unloved lily of the valley that’s keeping you from warming up to this EdP ;) ... I just managed to get a vintage (EdT) - and I totally agree with you here! - It’s a whole different league :)) ...
So it's Poliboy after all *g* :D. I don't know the current versions, just the vintage EdT. Your comment doesn't exactly make me eager to try the new version. Thanks for the comparison!
*I feel like hunting for vintage perfumes on eBay, especially not with my 70-year-old friend. She will miss her Joy... and she probably won't have time until 2036. So I have to say, your subjective assessment was very interesting to me, but I don't share your negative stance. Joy, which is now on the verge of being discontinued, isn't that bad that we should be glad it's getting the axe.
You write in a very sober tone (which I find appealing). I don't agree with the content. I can't perceive lily of the valley in the current Joy. Of course... the vintage is much nicer. But one of my best friends, who is 20 years older than me, uses the new Joy quite often, and I don't notice any significant differences when she wears it. It's been her perfume for over 40 years... for her, it would be a big loss if Joy were discontinued. Not everyone
Very nice and interesting comment. Both EdP and EdT aren't for me, but the comparison was great to read. I just can't get along with Dior; you must have meant Patou.
As usual, a factual and analytical comment that clearly highlights the differences between the old and the new.. unfortunately, there are hardly any really good reissues.. thank you for the comment!
I'm an old lily of the valley fan, but so be it! Sometimes scents need to be introduced. And this one might not be the worst candidate for it. Away-with-you trophy!
Sorry to say it, but such comparisons are fundamentally subjective feelings that have little to do with reality. Joy is a rose-jasmine scent with an aldehydic top note, where the roses dominate and the jasmine is slightly indolic, while lily of the valley is almost nonexistent. Unfortunately, the information here is also incorrect, as with almost all Patou fragrances. That should be revised. So, no lily of the valley, but if your nose perceives it that way, okay.
I surprisingly liked it, but I don't have a comparison to the vintage EDT. Well, you can't know everything. You described it so beautifully, that has to be enough. Quick question, I'm a bit confused: what does it have to do with the creepy Dior Joy?
How nice to be able to compare "old and new" so wonderfully. Your enthusiasm for the old EdT is definitely noticeable. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Dior hears your call!
I think a little bit of grit can really enhance many fragrances. My experience with Joy was quite disappointing... The initial floral burst quickly turned into a nasty cat pee scent that ruined any joy I had with the fragrance. It's a shame about the Jean Patou brand. Thank you so much for the glowing comment, and I’m happy to join in on the hope. Hopefully, still in the 2020s!
That makes the loss a bit less bitter. There's hope that one or another niche house will eventually release a Joy-inspired fragrance. Thanks for the thoughtful comment.
Oh dear, yes. Sometimes you just have to say goodbye to beloved fragrances. Reformulations can be so cruel, as it never comes without disappointments. In such cases, I always like to chase after vintage versions. With a bit of luck...
I like lily of the valley, but I can't really smell it in Joy.
Waiting until 2035 would be quite a long time, though...
First Tabac Blond, and now we have to wait here ;)